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Even if you can safely load it up to 80+%, just let it rip for a few hours straight at that. Its loaded enough to get burning up the gunk. You can step up from there after you really give is a nice warmup.

Some customers that are using this for large draw applications require huge LRA to get the machine up and going, so at least the units I sell, I try to make sure it will do exactly what they want. The inrush capability is sometimes what makes or breaks the sale. They will consume much lower...

The MEP-803A has a prime designation at 10kw @ 80% PF. The prime designation means designed for 24x7 use. These machines are capable of more than that (most government products are designed for over stated capacity, that sometimes gets whittled away through the contracting process) for use...

Are you 100% certain its the same gauge? Reason being is that if the sender isnt matched to the gauge, the readings can be off (like the coolant temp gauge I have in my unit reads about 215, when I know its really closer to 185). I knew it was going to be off, but the price made me not care so...

Per GMG: Edit: Gotta click on it to read it. GMG lit can be found here: https://greenmountaingenerators.com/manuals-and-support/mep-804a-mep804b-mep814a-mep814b-manuals/ Better list of lit can be found here for your machine (grab them all if you haven't yet)...

Get some real high quality fuel system treatment in it (like only put a couple gallons in the day tank, but an entire can of Seafoam) and burn it through. This machine should not be bogging down below its 100% rating... so we need to clear that part of this up first. This machine is rated 52A @...

Welcome to SS. These generators are absolutely prime power machines, not standby. They are made to run reliably for thousands of hours, if you are mindful of proper service intervals. How many amp does the pump require? Both at startup and under use (startup can be up to 2x the draw of under...

What have you done to the machine, be specific. I would definitely recommend replacing the in line fuel filter, as well as draining the water separator, before anything else. Are you running on old fuel? Have you put any Seafoam through this?

Nice little fleet

Thats pretty slick. I forget even how much I paid for this, but its nice because it has an inline mesh filter at the bottom. Great link for future projects though, thanks Zed

These machines, as all MEPs do... have a fuel line in and fuel return line. They are self priming machines if you just the pump cycle.

-10 manuals are the 'operators' manuals -24 are the 'troubleshooting' manuals -24P are the 'exploded parts diagram' manuals There are a few others, but just look for these end distinctions to help you understand which manual you should be referencing. In the TMs listed here, there are these set...

I sold one of my two earlier today actually... the other is still sitting in my garage. Was contemplating swapping the DC head over for an AC, just haven't gotten around to it (sold the 6kw AC head to the guy earlier too). Here is what I intend on using, only difference being I am going to drill...

I think this is done on purpose, so as to not confuse the fuel feed, and the fuel return. These machines were made for a specific IED Defeat platform in Iraq. Only ~230 were made... tied into an existing vehicle fuel system, to supplement battery charging under use. On the sets I have, I just...

Gauges crap out pretty regularly on the 802... enhanced vibration due to the twin cylinders. Check the wiring on the gauge first... does the needle drop to zero when unhooked or does it do anything after you turn the set on... or is it literally frozen in that position?

And not to withhold data, but if you can't find it... we will help. But part of owning these machines is being able to do for yourself, what others can't. If you can find the part number, share it here... and I will show you an additional website which may be quite beneficial​ to your part...

Have you referenced the parts manual? The info is in there, complete with manufacturer part number. The manual you want is 9-6115-642-24P. Perfect opportunity to 'crack the books' as this German chap I know likes to repeat :)

Yeah just sent the rad out to a reputable shop and don't think twice about it. Great time to install a new radiator cap too.. see how easy it is to spend other peoples money? ;)

Oh and inspect the belt too, if it looks at all worn or dry cracking, take it off now while you have all the room in the world. With the radiator and end off, you should also consider replacing the tank well nut with one of the upgraded brass units (check the forum for links).

And if you are taking the gear end cover off, spend the $10 and replace the crank seal in that case while you are at it. Cheap money while you are there.