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I've got (2) 002s I am currently sitting on, that both require the IP to be pulled and gone through. I hear ya...

I will see if I can hunt that thread out. I do have an 802 here for parts (but as this part has voltage going to it... its viability is in question). I will disconnect a single lead though and see if the fault condition changes. Thanks

If it were me, I'd find someone that does tops for dump trucks, and just have something made to fit. You can be sure it will be heavy duty enough to cover a couple of power units.

I didn't ask, but which manual are you pulling this from? I assume the -24, but the copy I have has coolant high temp switch instructions on 2-129 through 2-130

Yes... yes I do. And I feel like a heel for not simply seeing if I could add any fluid before starting. Funny what feeling like a heel can do to your resolve to not feel like one again. I can't tell from the writeup, but does the wire side matter on this switch? I don't see a particular pin-out...

Well the only saving grace I think I have, is that after trying to gurgle in more fluid, I was able to (seemingly) have the unit spin with the dead crank switch. I assume if it was seized, I would have heard nothing but the calamity of the starter gear strip out. Gives me hope at this early...

I could really kick myself for even having to ask the forum about this... low hour reset, foolishly assumed they had filled the radiator properly. Another tier 2 that bites me in the ass...

Shall be rainy day perusal, Guy. Thanks

And yes I was impatient in getting it going this morning, so I do know in the back of my mind that my impatience may very well have just seized up this unit. But I am hoping not. Too dark to do anything now, and going to rain with big winds the next two days.

It was less than 1 full jug... maybe 3/4

Oh, and with the battle short flipped, the light still comes on, but the whole set goes quiet once I flip to start.

Any thoughts? Or do I just have to follow 2-40. COOLANT TEMP. INDICATOR. procedures outlined in the -24 manual? I don't want to overlook something dumb. Was running an 802 earlier and the set shut down. I just added a bunch more coolant since I am assuming it was low. Should have looked at the...

What ever happened with this?

I find empty plastic milk jugs (or water jugs of the same construction, but semi-transparent) work well here too.

Well the value sell I can give you is that these machines are investments... so even if you started out with a 5kw, you at least have your foot in the door with this kind of power and reliability. You can always resell it to move up to a bigger machine later down the line (and possibly for MORE...

Are you sure you need 10kw+ sustained? 802s will give you 6250w @ 100% (and .6 gal/hr), but can peak up around 7.5kw. 802s are 'less desireable' to some, but perfect for many.

The 4 skid mounted units I followed averaged out at $4775/ea... WAY higher than the normalized average price. And those figures are without GP premium, sales tax, or freight! Edit: The 4 units referenced above were 10kw.

I wonder if your float is stuck up?

I have received dozens of inquiries from folks stateside on the generators I have for sale, trying to buy to send down for family they have in Puerto Rico. I have a business associate on the island (a commissioned sales rep for our company), and he has no generator. From my last contact with...

Why not go simple? Mount one of each of these: https://www.grainger.com/product/4FWD1 one on each door, and the lock on the body. Use a metal reinforcing plate behind each mount (just some flat metal stock from anywhere with drilled clearance holes). Then user some Tampertorx...