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Looking good, there @Gypsyman

@ckid you are right...that were the window tracks, not the wipers! Just could not remember!

IIRC, I riveted the wiper track to the door similar to the original ones, but the regular pop rivet heads protruded too far and caught the edge of the window. A grinder t the rivets solved that.

Yes, the White 135 and 155 tractors, respectively, correspond to the LDT and LDS engines, with modifications. A lot of parts are interchangeable, though, especially head studs, gaskets etc. I found pics of a White 2-135 engine on the web in a tractor forum. The exhaust manifold is flipped...

Last weekend I went to the local truck and tractor pull event (a bit of harmless fun and watching teenage kids that "tuned" their diesel pickups, mostly by turning up the fuel, throw driveshafts). Walking along some vehicles, this caught my eye.... Hmmm....hydraulic head with 6 lines...

I like the no-nonsense radiator...and the green colour. That engine will not be overstressed....not be STRESSED....with that power output and should run reliably for an eternity. Eventually, LDT/LDS parts will become difficult to find/price prohibitive, so I thionk you are ahead of the curve here.

@WhoMe08721 kudos for not only going through the brake system with a fine tooth comb and making it better than new, but also for trying to understand how everything works. Never mind a 25,000 lbs truck being slow off the line - the 25,000 lbs need to reliably stop in order to be safe in today's...

Love the car show bit! Nothing like all the guys polishing and shining while you knock out a dent with a hammer!

Common wisdom is close to 1/4" of travel. If the bottom clip fell off, it may still move, but less, maybe 1/8 of an inch. Or not move at all. It can get stuck in the bore; people have used a wooden dowel and a hammer and gently tapped it loose. After that, you may want to check that the bottom...

To check the plunger travel you need a wrench to take the hex plug out that sits in the top center of the hydraulic head, something to stick into the opening and rest on top of the plunger (I usually use a pencil; it's wood, doesn't mark anything). Then bump starter until pencil is at top dead...

I'll get right on that! I am still medicating for the poison ivy rashes I got after crawling around in that greenery! As always....my fault. It started as "While I am out here, I 'll quickly do THAT"......and so it goes.

I did....not sure if it was enough. The radials demand 120 PSI and I ran them at 60.

She really wants everything and a back rub!

You may have seen this thread here: https://steelsoldiers.com/threads/cant-get-the-engine-to-idle.208345/page-3#post-2448673 Some useful hints regarding idle issues as well!

I had an issue where the truck would bog down at highway speed. Felt like lifting the foot off the fuel pedal. Filters were new. Turns out, it was the filters. Mild off roading had dislodged gunk from the tank and the new primary filter was clogging. The high idle you describe is not...

Normally, three wires should be connected; the thick ones (battery and ground) and the 14 gauge "exciter" wire (which I recall receives power when the master switch is on to let the regulator know the switch is on). I cannot make it out on your pic but that thin wire does not appear to be...

Yes, the " three snatchblocks" is the issue! Very good technique. I usually carry one snatchblock.....

Singles, unfortunately Sent from my SM-G991W using Tapatalk

Just to prove that no good deed goes unpunished; in the course of the storm cleanup the community association asked me if I could remove the remains of a 1930' Chevrolet from the woods. The car was abandoned there some 50 years ago and has since collapsed and parts were salvaged extensively. The...

I don't think so. It merely made an already failing air pack more evident. Sent from my SM-G991W using Tapatalk