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He is correct. I exaggerated a bit about the cranking. Since these engines normally start instantly any cranking more than 2-3 seconds seems like a very long time. 2-4 sets of crank for 30 seconds, let it sit for at least 2 minutes, repeat should have you running just fine.

That sums it up pretty good. Then you get to crank and crank and crank and crank on the engine to get the IP primed and the lines bled of air. Make sure your batteries are up to the challenge and have a way to be charged. Pulling the glow plugs is a good way to let it spin faster with less...

60 psi is what I think the TM says is the max. 40-50 hot cruising is what the TM says is right.

These motors weren’t all that great new. Are you running stock wipers or the biggest ones that clear the molding? The combination of weak motor and bigger than stock blades has taught me to not turn them on unless the windshield is wet. I have had them stick just about all positions on the...

Are you getting any smoke while cranking?

Just reach up behind the dash. Follow the cable to the back of the speedometer. You can feel a plastic latch/catch on the side of it that holds it to the speedometer. Once you feel it, you will understand how it comes apart.

I have the adaptor installed so it was the male end of the adaptor box into the plastic gear. I second the recommendation to pull the casing from the back of the speedometer while working at the transfer case. If nothing else you will be able to see once you stuff the male end of the cable...

5/8 and 11/16 flare nut wrenches for the solid fuel line. 15mm socket for the solid fuel line holder halfway up the front of the engine 1/4" drive sockets have done me well for the actual mount bolts. Swivel sockets work well too. A stool or something to stand on for trying to do the stuff...

I wrapped the male end going into the plastic gear of one of mine with aluminum foil and it has been spot on working every time for the last 10 years now. Just throwing something else into the pot.

The brake light switch just connects the two leads to make the lights come on. If you are not hearing the air pack breathe in relation to the lights coming on then I would guess you either have a short between the 3 lever switch and the brake light switch or a bad brake light switch.

To answer the question. Yes, you can put the transfer case in neutral to flat tow. The TM says no more than 50 mph for 50 miles. Most everyone answered with the practical real world answer of trailer or pull the drive shaft because we all know someone who did it by the book. That had the not...

Just remember the box is meant to get the speedometer within 3-4 mph plus or minus with 31” tires.

Everyone that has done an axle swap on a M1009 has a reduction box sitting around. I am sure one will show up for sale.

It should be the other way around. Reading slower than actual speed. Is the speedometer reduction box on yours? The plastic gear on the output shaft of the NP208 and the plastic gear that goes into the NP208 are the correct ones for all the other CUCV trucks with 4.56:1 gears. Just the M1009...

Vacuum will not have any effect on reverse or 1st gear. If they don't work from a stand still then it is an internal transmission issue.

Low pressure Hydro boost hydraulic leak won’ do the pedal drop like you had. I agree about boiling fluid. I would also suggest brake hose replacement.

The part of the hose running from the splice to the injection pump is probably the original one and the proper length for the stock square fuel filter. Whoever put the spin on filter on the truck probably didn't want to go through the hassle of getting under the intake manifold to put in a new...

You have a very unique project. Simple stuff first. The alternators on a stock M1009 are each 12 volt isolated ground units. The drivers side supplies the front battery which most of the truck is run from at 12 volts. The passenger side alternator is exactly the same as the other one and...

Same here. Now I use whatever brand has the longest non pro rated warranty when I need another.

Forgot to add that through our talks. Computech knew all about my truck. He had pre programmed the controller for everything. A true plug and play install with me only having to zero the throttle position input.