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My controller is not the sport comp one. It was their latest and greatest 4 years ago. Before I bought, I called up my final 3 or 4 choices to talk about my 6.5 turbo Suburban project and how their controller would work. Computech was the only one that actually answered the phone. It might...
The cross member is a super easy fix. The rear frame bolt hole becomes the new front hole. Then just drill the new rear hole in the frame with the crossmember as the template.
You also need to think standard and metric. The 6.2 is all metric. The TH400 is standard. The NP208 is metric as is the...
Which side was the sun on? I second the IR thermometer gun idea. I use mine to check every bearing and tire. If one isn’t like the others by a little, no problem. By a bunch and I start to look into it.
I have not seen that part before. I know the tach signal sender without the vacuum pump is very expensive from GM. I had one that leaked oil the first time I fired up the engine. I went with the Dakota Digital alternator signal converter on my M715 which I have a complete CUCV dual alternator...
Check your fuel filter, air filter and such. If you have replaced them. Then it could be several things. The TM tab at the top of this page is a way to download the Technical Manuals for this truck. The one ending in -20 has a great almost 100 page section on troubleshooting and talks you...
The green wire comes from the cold advance/fast idle sensor on the rear of the passenger side cylinder head. It goes to the cold advance solenoid on the IP cover and to the fast idle solenoid on the throttle. I don't see the fast idle solenoid in your picture though.
Double the pressure test suggestion. Maybe it had a bad head gasket 20 years ago and residual oil is what you are dealing with. Don't make a problem until you confirm you have a problem.
Very interesting form. I did something similar to what you are wanting to do with a non running out of state registered vehicle when I first wanted to register it in Texas. I had a friendly police officer verify the VIN for me. (It was before the form you linked to was created.)
So, yes you...
I don't know how your 12 volt conversion was done so this is just a guess. The big red wire from the batter to the starter goes on the big stud of the solenoid. There should be a smaller 12 gauge or so wire on the same stud that goes to the diamond shaped 2 post buss bar above the glow plug...
I think you are on the correct path. Someone plugged the rear light buckets in wrong and they probably just need to be corrected is my thought.
The flasher box is very delicate and doesn’t like stray electrons so do not use your blinkers to check for current at the light buckets.
Interesting. I have only come across the 4 groove V belt pulleys in the past. 4 or 5 groove should work on the CUCV.
I figure the bolt on the side of the block currently used as the rear power steering pump bracket mount and in front of the motor mount will figure in your mounting of the...
Where did you get the new proportioning valve on the front cross member? I ask because the last I looked, they were no longer available new. That part though should not affect your dragging brakes though.
Is the truck pulling to one side constantly? That would be a clue as to which side is...
That is not the correct alternator for a M35A1. They were 28 volt externally regulated (Bread loaf 25 amp) units if my memory of the TM's is correct.
Not trying to pick on you since you are relaying a request. But, more information is needed or wider range pictures.
The new alternator from NAPA. Is it an isolated ground unit? The theory is the drivers side doesn't have to be, but if the passenger side isn't, that could also be a short.
Are you talking about the triangle shaped mount behind one of the front doors that can double as a Yeti cup holder or the little clip at the front or rear that holds the end of the antenna?
Sorry to come back with more questions. However, have you downloaded or at least looked at the manuals available for the truck? At the very top of the page in the main title banner is a link marked TM. There are several for the CUCV trucks. The one ending in -10 is like an owners manual on...
To get the drivers door glass out you have to remove the window crank handle, the screws, the arm rest pad and the vent window frame. Did you do all of that already?
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