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If nothing else is on, yes 15 minutes should have the batteries topped up. Go ahead and do the first thing the TM says to do. Have both batteries load tested and fully charged. Everything depends on that at the beginning.

Do you have the glow plug resistor bypassed on the firewall? If so, the front battery is doing all the glowing and will take longer to get back up to full voltage.

The military supposedly all got the J code engines with the higher rating. Some of the civilian trucks got the lower rather EGR engine. Open intake J code. EGR in the middle under the air filter lower power.

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The fan clutch will not fully "lock up" no matter what temperature it is. I think the stock CUCV fan will get up to 70% engagement for up to 6 minutes. That is off the top of my head and may not be exact. My point is there will always be some slippage on the fan clutch.

My spare doesn't wobble at all. I have the red handled over center locking lever at the end of the arm and a spring loaded locking pin at the bearing. Is that what you were asking?

I couldn't remember if it was P40 or P400 so I wrote it the way I did. I have an optimizer 6500 with the HMMWV oil pan in my 1987 Suburban. Plenty of clearance all around. The 1 piece rear main seal on those engines means if you swap the oil pan, it has to be from a 6.5 with the 1 piece rear...

The HMMWV oil pan will clear the stock Chevy cross member on a CUCV. The engine above the Optimizer 6500 is the one with the girdle and oil pan that won't clear the stock CUCV crossmember.

I’m sure a LED bulb has been put into H4 housings. However, the focal point of the vastly different lights means your chances of getting focused on the road light are pretty low. That is why you see LED housings listed separate from the halogen housings.

Welcome to the fun. I have camped many nights next to that truck.

I have often thought the CUCV trucks were one of the main reason LED bulbs for tail lights were developed. Starting with the black out lights and then the full light buckets on MV’s and the trailers.

No, the trailer wiring is all 12 volt.

Just use the positive of the front battery to run the LMC relay kit. I have to plug the Trucklite LED headlights. I put them on the Cowdog and had buyers remorse as soon as I hit the button to buy them. Until I got them on the truck. I want them on the entire fleet now. That are that good.

Sorry I didn't include the vacuum value. Another trouble shooting method is to bypass the throttle valve and just go direct from the vacuum pump to the modulator on the transmission. It will shift so fast and smooth that you will be in 3rd gear at 25 mph and never feel a shift if you drive...

Just plug a vacuum gauge into it. It is real easy just plugging into the line at the throttle valve.

If it is the power steering bolt behind the pulley. You will need a thin 15mm open end wrench to tighten it. Snap-On fits but Craftsman and Kobalt don’t in my experience.

I didn’t get a chance until after dark tonight. I think I got what you wanted. Look closely at the rear of the fender cut. To me that is the most important. I have never had it rub with 315/75R17 BFG tires.

I will have to measure from the screw hole of the side marker light tonight to get that dimension. If you look real close at the rear there is an angle cut off visible from the outside. Most of the cutting was on the inner part. I will try and take pictures of that too. I did not move my...

I found I actually didn't take any pictures while cutting the fenders. So I have the pictures of the truck already posted that show the fenders on it and I have this picture of after I painted them:

I like that brake conversion and have tried to figure out a way to do it with 8 lug rotors. I had a 2wd 1984 Diesel 3/4 ton Suburban before the Cowdog 4x4 3/4 ton. I was also driving my M1009 daily. I never drove the Cowdog with stock suspension. So, all I can do is compare the ride of a...