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By all means, get the new version button. I remember doing what you did - sitting in the cab with the assorted pieces, going WTF?? I did get it together, eventually, but it never fit totally right. New button, problem solved. If you want to play...

:roll: I really did not WANT to be right! It does not appear to be a severe bend. As long as the extension runs in and out without binding you will likely be just fine. Maybe it can be straightened. **thinking of boom on wooden blocks and a heavy loader gently pushing down in the middle**

Is it an optical illusion or is the boom bent? Congrats on getting her running!

The flasher units are known to go bad. Cheapest bidder. Still $$ to replace each time. There is a thread on how to build your own with a 24V flasher relay. Did that, never looked back.

If it hits with some starting fluid, you know it has air and compression. If it does not stay running, it does not get fuel. If the in-tank fuel pump is actually pumping and producing pressure (verify!) there should be fuel delivered to the high-pressure fuel pump at the injection pump. The IP...

Lola got a thorough after-flood-service pressure wash. Gone is the sand off the cargo deck and even the inside of the cabin is clean again! Engine block got a wash, too. There is some weeping from the head gasket, never mind that it is brand new heads and gasket, torqued and re-torqued. Oh well...

Yes, the symptoms you describe point to the airpack (hydrovac) needing to be rebuilt.

https://olive-drab.com/od_mseries_circuits.php and (drawing courtesy of mudguppy)

https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?8460-Front-axle-seals-and-boots-stepXstep This is a good starting point if you have never taken the brake drums off your truck.

I believe the oil drain plug is a standard 7/8-18 plug. Just get a drain valve with the same thread. T-208.

The air pressure operated switch should open at 3-5 psi, so "extra pedal pressure" should really not be needed. The deuce air system runs up to 120 psi.

Montaillou, that can usually be fixed with a peace offering of a 6-pack to the neighbour (and a juicy burger from the BBQ to go with it, if so inclined!) I am sure you already took action! Are you at all concerned with overall height? The cab plus rack appears higher than, let's say, a stock...

Do you have the upgrade to the air operated switch or still the switch in the hydraulic line?

Very nice work! Thanks for the detailed pics and explanations.

Is it just me or does the Cummins sound very very similar to an LDS-465? Both at idle and when revved?

Are you able to pull the drum lock? Does the drum turn by hand? Can you turn the drum a bit and try the lever again? Can you turn the winch driveshaft by hand a bit and try the lever again? Note that the lever does not move much, just a click to either side. You do know about the little hinged...

Montaillou, the A2 cap inserts very loosely into the vertical A3 intake pipe. I also think that it must go OVER the pipe, otherwise you invite water to seep in and run down inside the pipe. I have not measured actual diameters, yet. I will look at some options; there are rubber/silicone reducers...

This could be the air pack being in need of a rebuild. If it happens after you applied the brakes, it could also be the small drain hole inside the Master Cylinder that is clogging. Here is some reading: https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?136067-Deuce-brakes-locking-up

I received my A3 air filter assembly and short side panel. I have two observations and one question: - the short A3 side panel does not fit the A2 without serious modification. It is overall too wide and tapered, whereas the A2 needs a straight top edge. I think cutting the A2 panel is less...

I get what Jeepsinker is saying. The multifuel in its variants is a six decades old design that is nowhere near as reliable as a modern diesel. The multi is not a bad engine by any stretch - but it is what it is. Even rebuilt it will leak. I had the NOS heads checked for plane, the deck as well...