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No. Dont drive it in the winter. Sent from my SM-G950W using Tapatalk

There are 2 bolts and 2 studs on the exhaust manifold. The steel hardware, after many many cycles of getting really hot, oxydizes and rusts solid. Tricks to loosen include acetone/ATF mixture (soak and let sit), AeroKroil (soak and let sit) and anger management issues involving a torch or...

Holy Sh*t! :eek::eek:

Ordered tintable Raptor Liner, their army green tint, and etching primer to do the cargo deck. I am not too concerned about exact colour match, I just don't want it black. I need to cut 18 4" holes into the drop sides and weld the cargo hook pockets in first.

#Quick little projects" ain't.

That is interesting. Can you give more info for the less turbo initiated?

We have them on one of our fire trucks and they work just fine. They operate by using the slight pressure differential between the air system being full and when brakes are applied to open and expel water and junk. I had manual drains and they worked ok, but after the second time both cables...

Put the canvas winch cover on (Jatonka) and installed two automatic air tank drains (type DV-2).

1) Yes, camo works (you do see the truck, right?) 2) This is 5 of our fire station's rookies in the back. I took "Queen Lola" to the aftermath of a house fire to load dirty hose and equipment. Our rookies are not yet allowed on calls so they enjoyed the ride and actually being on a fire scene...

Glad to hear that the truck will continue to live! I do not hold insurance companies in high regard and it is nice when they give you what you paid for. Sent from my SM-G950W using Tapatalk

The governor is replaceable with NAPA #H284358 that is reported to work fine. https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/TWRH284358 Before embarking on the compressor adventure, would it help to simply add an air tank or two? More volume, more buffer for run time, especially if you do not run high volume...

Oh no! Sorry to hear about the aborted test flight and hard landing. Hopefully that is the only damage and a relatively quick fix. Sent from my SM-G950W using Tapatalk

Johan, look at post #7: https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?54195-Super-low-oil-pressure-M35A2-multifuel

From the back of my head, non-TD block torque is 132 ft lbs, TD is 157 ft lbs. Both with sequential torquing to these values.

Starting to look like a truck again!

Lifting the front end on the frame and letting the axle hang might give you enough clearance to get the pan out. Safe working practices recommended. Sent from my SM-G950W using Tapatalk

Negative. Not off a 5ton. It is an early turbo for the LDT and it should have 12 blades. https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?61801-Turbo-part-number-ID

From what I experienced, I definitely agree with the "retorque" crowd. As I said, new style gasket, followed the torque sequence, run it a few times and all nuts were unequal. Some looser then others but all were significantly backed off from original specs. No wonder the gasket would start...

I usually keep boost in the 7-10 psi range. Very rarely do I not pay attention and the D turbo happily boosts up to 15. Sent from my SM-G950W using Tapatalk

I retorqued mine (new style head gasket) with no ill effects. The head nuts were certainly loose, after correct install and a few hundred kilometers and hot/cold cycles. I was quite surprised. Still...gasket is seeping. Sent from my SM-G950W using Tapatalk