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Anytime the inside of the engine is below 150˚, it is considered cold. The glow plugs normally kick in below 125˚. You could just be in the dead zone between the two.

Every day here as well. One of the M1009's or the former USAF 6.2 Suburban. Maybe one or two days a month something else gets driven to work.

If it just started after not doing it before. I would suggest a fuel filter change and a look at the lift pump.

Here is my suggestion: Allow the "new post" button to work even after someone has logged on, hit it and then logged off. As in I might need to look up the part numbers for a M35A2 secondary fuel filters. However, I know if I get on the site and haven't been here in a few days. All the post...

The antenna adaptor is available from LMC for less than $20 to your door if I remember correctly.

Check the return line check valve on the IP. Even though the pump was rebuilt "a few years ago" it still could be your problem.

The cold timing advance and fast idle (green wires on the IP) are controlled by a temperature sensor on the outside rear of the passenger side head. Nothing to do with the glow plug system. Totally seperate. A picture of how you have the solenoid for the glow plugs wired up would probably...

I started not to post, but figured since nobody has anwered in 3 days, something needs to be said. I don't have any M35 parts are work here with me so I can't go check. However, I think the fuel fittings are non standard sizes. I re use all of my fittings. It has been a while since I messed...

I have had 2 of my 8 window regulators (The big gear and little gear the window crank attaches to) lock up on me. Nothing to do but buy a new one and install it. If yours goes fine for a bit then feels like it locks up, it is probably the bearings behind the crank handle shaft. As stated...

Yes, it should light up as you are cranking. That is proper opperation. The trouble shooting section of the -20 takes you through when it should light and how to test it as well.

I have had them break on me as well. All of the 5 or 6 I have broken were above the pump housing once the lid was removed. Go ahead and pull the cover. There might be enough left to turn the rest of the screw out with your fingers or a pair of pliers.

What you described could be any number of issues. Have you followed the -20 troubleshooting section on engine starting and symptoms of not running well?

Here you go. Very nice people on the phone to talk with. I have not ordered from them however so have no clue about actual customer service. http://www.cpifabtx.com/catalog.html

I got one of their set ups off a fellow members truck a few months ago. I was going to do the copy method for myself. It isn't that easy. A few bends and the holes with sleeves make it so a hydralic press brake is going to be needed. Not many small shops have that. The company they buy it...

The power lead that bolts on needs to be connected as well for the alternator to start charging. Just the pigtail won't do it.

If you go with a swing away tire mount. Make sure it is like the one pictured above. Which is mounted to the bumper. The bed side metal is not made for or reenforced for a swing away tire mount. I think 1976 had a factory K5 mount and then it went away. It went away for a reason. I would...

Does anything happen when you try? Such as the idiot lights changing, noises or clicking? Also, turn on the headlights and try. If they don't dim, the problem is probably before the starter. If they dim, then it is probably starter related. Of course, have you checked your batteries?

Page 2-69 of the -20 manual says to ground the black/yellow wire at the sensor on the radiator with the key on. If the light goes out the sensor is bad. If the light stays on then you have to test the module. I have 3 of these trucks and 2 of htem have had bad sensors. Ground the wire and...

I went through this when I put a 6.2 in my M715. I already had a full set of Auto Meter gauges on that truck since it was switched over to 12 volts before I got it. MPH, RPM, oil psi, temp, volts, fuel and fuel psi. I took a complete CUCV dual alternator set up and put it in the M715. (I like...

Lets start simple. Have you tried pulling the wheel one way or the other as you try turning the key? Often times the pin in the lock plate gets jambed and won't let the key turn. If that isn't it, then the directions above or the TM will tell you how to take it down for needle nose plier...