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Kerry-Ann -- I'd avoid that rusty truck like the plague. You'd want to tend to all that rust right away, and once you start the abatement process, invariably, you find about as much "invisible" rust as you see with the naked eye. NO FUN! If you don't treat it just right (i.e. cut it out or...

What's the problem? Just keep it under 45 -- you'll be fine! :mrgreen: Seriously, though, good luck; I'll be keeping an eye on this thread for future reference!

I know this is an old thread, but thought I'd add (for anyone searching) that the Fairchild seals I just received from Rock Auto seem to fit just fine. Install was easy, too.

Oh, and for those who might wonder who to get the door glass run in it's channel down inside the door: press the upper portions into place and press the lower sections in as far as you with the window rolled down. Then, just roll the window carefully up until the bottom of the seal frames are...

Yessir, Rock Auto had the seal kits for about $75 shipped versus $99 plus shipping on LMC. LMC is a nice resource, and I have used and will use them, but I also shop around and spend my money (what little I can spare!) wisely.

All -- I got the driver's side installed last night before bed... not bad at all! One you pull the door card, it's pretty simple to see how things go together. Thanks for all the feedback and encouragement. The parts I received from Rock Auto were Fairchild pieces; they seem to fit just fine...

Mine are actually coming from Rock Auto; their price was significantly lower than LMC (I just borrowed their diagram to illustrate which parts I'm replacing). I use LMC for many things, but do still shop around when I buy. I'm not THAT wealthy! :D

Thanks, Whitey. I'll thumb through the TM's and read up on the alignment procedure.

Hey, thanks -- I'm feeling pretty good about taking this job on now. Can't wait for the parts to get here!

Will do! I do get to "the Haute" on occasion, as I'm just over the border in Charleston, IL. Take care!

Thanks, epitts! I was hoping it would be as simple as that. Are you with the 181st over in Terre Haute? I'm with the 126th at Scott.

I've seen lots of posts discussing the replacement of window seals, but have yet to find one that details any pitfalls or areas of concern, or specific instructions on HOW this is done. I'm replacing the scrapers (or seals, whatever you want to call them) on both doors -- part # 4 on the LMC...

Ouch. I'd say the seller lost out, too. The $15 fee would surely have earned him more than a $250 sale here!

The USAF has plenty of green vehicles.

That's pretty neat -- I could swear there was one in the ambulance configuration at Manas Air Base in Kyrgyzstan when I was there a couple of years ago. It sat outside the clinic the whole time I was there, and that sure looks like what I remember, but I may be wrong. In any case, cool truck!

Excellent point, pooka -- I should add that my horn was "DOA" too. I took it out, applied 12V, and initially got nothing. I figured I had little to loose, so I knocked it around a bit and got a sickly "sqkwawk" (like a dying duck). :mrgreen: With a few more applications of 12Vm it got better...

That's been my understanding as well, and is exactly why I felt comfortable removing these components.

My M1009 had an inop horn when I bought it, so I dug in this evening. I checked the diode, just for fun, and it looked cooked... so out it came. Still no horn, but the relay clicked, so I checked the physical connections. Someone cut both the horn wire and the blackout driving light wire...

UPDATE: I went against every "car shopping" instinct I have and bought the first CUCV I looked at. It was quite the adventure. We have 3 kids (2 months and 20 months old, so a real handful) and the truck was in Chicago, over 3 hours drive from here. I talked my wife into letting me take a...

Nice one. Can't be TOO much slower than an automatic Mercedes 240D... can it? :wink: So, in all sincerity, are these engines pretty solid? Is blowby much of an issue? Thanks again...