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Thanks -- I pulled the cover to look at the flex plate bolts, but didn't look much further than that. I'll try to dig further. Are cracks generally pretty evident?
This one's been driving me nuts, guys. Under load, when accelerating, my M1009 makes a light chirp/knock (really more of a tap -- it's higher-pitched than a knock) . As soon as I let off the pedal, it's gone, and if I accelerate very modestly, it doesn't make noise. I can't replicate it in...
Well, got under and checked the flex plate bolts -- all were nice & tight. Belt dressing didn't eliminate the noise either, but I didn't get as far as checking the u-joints real well. They felt good when I greased them a couple of days ago, but I'll give them a closer look this weekend...
Thank you, Matt -- I did crawl under and eyeball the u-joints as a first check, and didn't notice anything suspicious. I greased the rear shaft u-joints just-in-case, which didn't help the chirp/knock. I'll do as you suggest and check them closer, though. They were clearly old(er), and as...
Also, dumb question -- are the TC bolts easily accessible from the inspection cover? I've never fiddled with a trubo 400 trans, believe it or not. Always been a German car (or Ford) guy 'til now, and usually drive manuals. Thank you!
Excellent suggestion, Barrman -- thank you! I am hoping/praying it's nothing significant (like rod knock, etc...), but am always extremely proactive with new/suspect sounds. I just want to be on top of this before it becomes a major issue; I will check those bolts out pronto.
THANKS AGAIN!!!
I just installed a hood pad in my 1009, and wonder whether the "new" noise I'm hearing is really new at all, or just newly audible with the hood pad installed...
Anyway, I now hear a faint chirp/tap (or even light knock) under acceleration; it varies with engine rpm, and is only audible when...
Here's one for $2k in Chicago. Looks a little rusty, though; might be worth a look if you're not too far away!
EDIT: sorry, can't link to CL. It looks like it might be a decent truck, though; point being, keep an eye out!
***** EDIT ***
Craigslist and Ebay links are not allowed unless they...
I wondered whether that was the case, but several photos seem to show the same gauge I used. On closer inspection, though, some of the pics seems to indicate that the voltmeters in those trucks might be dead; they are WAY to the left, further than mine ever reaches. Maybe they just never...
To follow-up: i have the gauges working correctly now. I did indeed need to isolate the water temperature gauge from the metal panel it mounts in, as allowing it's housing to contact that panel grounded it, and sent 24 volts to the voltmeter. It appears that the ground to the voltmeter is what...
FINALLY found a post describing a similar problem:
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/cucv/53946-another-volt-meter-prob.html
How are folks installing gauges in this panel w/o causing this issue? I'm perplexed now. Guess I'll need to figure out a way to insulate my gauge from the metal panel, huh...
To clarify: I am seeing ~24 volts measured on my multimeter when the metal panel that the voltmeter is mounted in is grounded. It's as if the ignition key is turned on when the grounded water temp gauge makes contact with the panel.
I have seen others mount mechanical water temp gauges in this...
Alright, folks, I've about worn out the search function trying to wrap my mind around this one. I have just installed an Autometer water temp gauge, and now my voltmeter reads in the yellow even with the key off. If I pull the water temp gauge out (so that it's no longer making contact with...
Find some level ground and use the biggest carpenter's square you can find to see if, in fact, one wheel tips "in" toward the top. Measure several times on both sides, and see if there is, in fact, some negative camber and difference between the two sides, or if it's an optical illusion -- or...
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