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She is still hurting from the wreck and getting better, but daily driving the M1009. She likes it. That is why I am having trouble getting good mpg numbers for it. She drives each stop light like a drag race oppertunity. If I know we are going to be doing some highway miles, I top it off...
High idle on the CUCV trucks turns of when the sensor at the outside rear of the passenger head "thinks" the coolant has hit 75°. So, while not close to operating temperature. It is better than -05°. Take it easy or let it sit for another minute should be all you have to do in normal weather...
As long as you don't have to do stupid stuff like the north bound I-75 drop into Ohio. Flat tow it. However, based on my flat towing M35's with M35's. 6-8 is all you are going to get with the Duece. Unless you have several barrels of "Gimpy's Own" fuel to use. Drive the 5 ton flat towing the...
Wind resistance kills the M1009. I pulled my 2000 pound flat bed car hauler last March empty and it felt like it wasn't there for a 60 mile drive. Load 1 old pick up truck bed/converted trailer that stuck up into the air and I couldn't hold more than 52 mph pulling up some hills. No mpg...
If it was making black smoke at idle, that means fuel injector stuck almost all the time. Narrow down which side was smoking. Then use a 3/4 open end to loosen the lines at each injector on that side with the engine running. It will make a mess, so don't do it inside your garage or anything...
Check your steering components. Have somebody turn the wheel sharply 30° back and forth while you crawl around underneath and put your hand on each and every joint. Drag link ends, tie rod ends, rag joint, box to frame mount and then pick the front end up. Push/pull on the top of each front...
Pull the air filter, dry up the valley with rags and let the thing run until you find where the leak is.
My 1009 always had a wet looking valley, but never a visible leak. Until last fall when it first got cold. Then I would get the puddle you described under the truck. It would warm back...
If you have John working on the problem, then you don't need our help.
You write that you have a GEN I problem, yet GEN II is giving the bad readings. Or am I reading things wrong?
Look at the Bendix end of the solenoid housing on the starter. It probably says NO SHIM. The redux starters didn't use shims either.
If yours is the shim type and needs them, look in the -20 for how to measure. Then, your local auto parts store will have what you need.
This is a cobbled together M101A2 with M35 bows and a M1008 cover. However, you get the idea of super rope tie downs. I can have the top off in the time it takes to walk around the trailer. Same with going on. The picture is from a Scout camp out last winter.
I think you were asking him for pictures of the 3rd seat in the 1009. However, since I brought it up. Here are pictures of my 3rd seat install in my M715. Yes, this is a different seat than he was looking at, but the idea is the same.
His Spring Branch is the San Antonio version.
Since this thread is alive again. I still haven't opened that silly box up to mess with it since this thread was active. Maybe one of these days.
I know you need it NOW. However, they show up on ebay all the time.
You can swap in all the military guts to a civi plastic housing. Just clean everything and test each circuit multiple times before you plug it in.
Oh, stay 24 volts. You will get much more help and information about how...
Totally different mounts, but if you have the floor part from a 2000 and up to donate, you can make them fit the back of the 1009. Just be aware the fuel tank is under there in the very back.
Or just weld in hoops above the floor for the mounts. It will be a bit high, but work just fine.
Might as well buy new wheel cylinders and the rear axle brake hose. The brake parts might cost you $20 total, they will be new and you will only have to bleed the brakes a single time.
I had the same problem on a 14 bolt Suburban and it was the wheel cylinder seeping. Either way, same...
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