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Looking for which plate goes on this location. If anyone has reasonable sources all ears. This is the side with the radiator filler. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

If tie rods are still good, boots are available. I’m in process with this now. “Energy Suspension 9.13119G Round Style Tie-Rod End Boot” Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Well I was wrong about the pitman arm, it was well worn as well. All done with the tear down and getting ready to install the A2 idler, pitman and drag link. A2 on left A0/1 on right A2 idler is definitely improved Old assembly ready for scrap. Seems a shame to toss the drag link...

Plenty of suppliers make no drill brackets. I use Black Dog customs on my airlift… (Not affiliated) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Do the tie rods interchange or does the A2 also have longer tapered shanks on the tie rods? I understand the A2 arms can use the A0 drag link with spacers under the nut…? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I replaced the idler about two years ago with the original A0/A1 style. The pitman arm was and is still good. Now worn with approximately 2k road miles on. I’m going to step up to the A2 style arms this time around. I’m debating weather to upgrade the drag link at the same time. Q: are the tie...

Replaced 7.5k LF & RF axle. Autozone. Yeah I’m aware of the quality concerns with off shore parts. The price and warranty was right. Also took the opportunity to replace the hub input seal for good measure. Component wise the build looks very similar to the 10k axle specification.

Removed all rear upper A arm shims. It’s a big job but it did go much faster after getting the procedure practiced. Off to the alignment shop Monday to see how camber turns out. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

+100 I performed the same adjustments on my M998. It does help [emoji106] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Bracket is well diagramed in the parts TM. Four rivets to the C pillar and a through bolt to the body seam. Structural? -no Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks, I have also been considering the same upgrade. You’re a wealth of information in this community. [emoji106] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Picked up 5 radio trays from GovPlanet. Took the best components of each and mounted on my M998. I have the tall mount turbo leg/bar assembly for the rack but decided against the conversion at this time. The old style M998 feet seem to work just fine. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Set front toe in per TM. 3/16” toe in and called it good enough. Centered steering wheel after many, many adjustments… Removed all shims from LF control arms to get positive camber under control. LF is nearly 0 degrees camber now. Still have to do the same to RF which is running about 1...

Finished 60A generator brush replacement and VR adjustment M998 60A alternator not charging https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/m998-60a-alternator-not-charging.202938/[URL] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Done! The alternator has been reinstalled and adjusted to 28V output per the TM! [emoji1360] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

New brushes installed. Encapsulated Holders/wires/capacitor in silicone to ease replacement in the future if needed. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Slip rings polished up with 400 grit Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Brush holder released from it’s epoxy cocoon. A pencil tip soldering iron worked great in this case. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Voltage regulator adjustment plug was stripped/frozen. Drilled and extracted so the VR can be adjusted in the future. 10M Tapered plug replacement Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Brushes are on the way [emoji106] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk