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Sounds like you need some fuel system checks or glow plug work.

That really depends on what you want for comfort in your daily drive. No a/c, no tunes, no rear doors, manual windows and locks along with no cup holder. If you add a civilian K5 center console, or make your own the cup holder and storage issues are gone. Then it comes down to what fits you...

Forgot one. Finally got all 4 door hinge pin kits with bushings in. Just have to install them now. Having doors that open and close with ease will really be nice.

33 x12.50 BFG AT tires! Spin on fuel filter is probably the next favorite. Civi center console, GEAR seat cover with a camel back and new wiper blades are probably next. Besides of course the mechanical stuff needed to make it run and drive like it should.

Glad you found what you were looking for. Read the CUCV sticky threads, the manuals and if you really want to know them. Open up the CUCV forum, go the the last thread from way back when and read every single one up to today. Starters, alternators, glow plugs and IP's will be the main topics...

Figure on buying 2 gallons of ATF if you are dropping the pan and replacing the filter. Button it back up, add a gallon, fire it up, let it get warm, put it in all the gears for a few seconds and then check. You will probably end up adding in another 2 quarts or real close to that amount...

Yes it is safe. In line fuses are a great idea as long as you make them in a location you can get to once everything is installed and the truck is going down the road. Putting the fuse up behind the lighter location is just asking for it to go out on a cold rainy night when your cell phone is...

Once you get it started, jack up the front wheel in question and see if you can move it in and out at the top. If you can, see if it is bearings or king pin related. Then adjust/fix/replace what is needed.

It probably wasn't melted. GM put some kind of tar/goo/di electric grease in there. They all have the black goo inside them. If you look at the wiring drawings in appendix F of the -20. You will see that plug and what pin goes to what. I have used just that plug and some hot wires to start...

I thought I wanted them as well. Until I found a guy with 8 K5 civi blazers. 5 had the slider side windows. All the sliders themselves were broken in some way or another. I just wanted a matched set and couldn't find it. I also noticed all of the slider trucks had rusted out floors with...

No, just explaining what I am working on and why I am waiting for another harness instead of just starting over. Yes, you are also correct that the 1010 has to be done before I touch the 1009.

Factory is pump, filter, IP. That also keeps any pieces of the lift pump from getting into the IP if it decides to die on you. A sealed up system won't really care either way. Just when you have air leaks and the stock filter is know to leak air, so keeping it pressurized is probably a good...

Darn, just my luck.

Finding a stock replacement is way better than a painless kit. I had my students do a painless kit on a '67 Camaro. Total mess trying to get all the little stuff connected to the stock factory plugs. Go with the wiring meant for the truck. I will as soon as some parts show up in the mail on...

Are you sure it is the rear main seal? Use a light and look around the valley for evidence of fuel coming from the pump, draining out the little hole at the back and then running down to the crank and out the hole in the flywheel cover. Dirty diesel sure does look like dirty oil on the ground.

Passenger alternator charges the rear battery which does half the glow plugs and starting. As written above. You will need to fix it or charge the rear battery to full every 10-15 starts.

Um, is that hood offer good to other people as well?

Here is a thread with drawings, pictures and everything you need to figure out which starter is which: http://www.steelsoldiers.com/cucv/49893-dumb-newbie-starter-question.html

You are actually looking for a 24 volt Delco 28MT gear reduction starter. There are probably 30 on ebay today. I haven't looked though to be sure. You will need the GM starter bolts from the dealer and the proper mount bracket for that starter as well. Numerous threads have been posted about it.

Three is the standard number we are required to have in Texas I do believe.