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I was too Sam. Here we have the big Scout parade in Austin this Saturday and driving the M1009 dragging the M101 would sure be easier and nicer than bringing a Duece. Especially since it is supposed to be 26° Saturday morning. I don't have any pictures, but my 101 had no bows or sides when I...

I think 4 mpg might be a bit optomistic actaully. My Gasser M35 gets 4-5 and it never revs over 3000 rpm. My 396 powered M715 with a NV4500 and half the weight of a M35 struggles to get above 9 on the modern chemical junk they sell as gasoline these days. Below is a picture of the big...

I called a Stanadyne repair place near me about mine which seeps fuel every so often. He asked me if it still started right up in the mornings? When I told him it did, he said to leave it alone until it flows out or won't start up in the mornings. His '89 6.2 seeps as well and he said 5 years...

There actually in one of the -??P manuals is a listing for a 1/8" x 1" flat iron that goes in that flap on the back. I forget which manual or rear I saw it in. Sorry. I did find some of the "stock" flat irons a few years ago and installed one. Makes a huge difference in noise and flapping.

56 mph is mathemetical top speed with stock 9.00-20 tires. 62 is mathematical top speed with 11.00-20 tires. Mine is "happy" at 2250 rpm and about 48-52 mph according to the gps with 11.00 tires. It really comes down to what you are willing to spend fixing stuff, buying fuel and time working...

You mean the one in the picture below? I remember looking at it because Colton tried to stand up and wacked his head on the frame. He had a knot on his head for days after that. I was so impressed with how easy that was. That I came home and built a pto cover out of 1/4" steel. I saw it...

There is a high and low for the transfer case. That is the lever between the seat and the transmission shifter. Engagement of the front axle is automatic through the way the transfer case works.

Yes, start simple with the battery cables and work your way to the ignition switch. Make sure you spend time at the harness plug behind the fuse panel on the engine side of the firewall. Use a test light, volt meter or have something simple and low draw on such as the running lights. You can...

BOB, All the stuff you mentioned has to be done no matter what engine is swapped in. That stuff is the "given" for a motor swap. I last saw Lee's 4Bt truck in your shop back in 2006. So we both know that a 4BT is a simple engine to fit into a M715. Sure it has to be plumbed and wired, but so...

I know this has been written before, but. Read the -20 troubleshooting section. It walks you through how to test and check the card and the solenoid in great detail. Now, for your situation. Is the card still hanging from its mount on the column with the little cap on it or is it just the...

The area for the spare tire is a 42" circle. The fuel tank is about 15" tall. That is about all I can do without a truck and a tape measure next to me.

PM or Email Mcinfantry. He build a M715 exactly as you described about 8 years ago. He has since sold it, done the same to a few other vehicles and is redoing one now. Mounting a 4Bt is easy. So is a 6Bt actually. The 6Bt just has a little too much length for the M715. 4Bt is not a...

The engine is a REO OA-331. Called the Gold Comet. Not much battery is needed to turn it over compared to a diesel. A matched set of something is best. If all you are trying to do is fire it up and move it. Then just any pair will work. The brakes are hydraulic drum at all 6 corners with air...

As written above. If you can get a SBC or BBC in there, a 6.2/6.5 will fit and bolt up the same way. As also mentioned above. Gearing is going to be a problem. I have a NV4500 in my M715 with the Michelin 11.00-16 tires. 5th gear 2000 rpm is 52 mph. Which just happens to be as fast as I...

They work off the pulse of the fuel in the injection line. They are right on. However, because they are digital. You can't follow progress as the rpms climb or fall. Digital tachs annoy me, especially in airplanes because you are always having to hunt for the desired rpm from moving too much...

Before you start throwing money at the front axle, consider this. Several surplus places have brand new never used complete front axles for less than $500. Depending on where you are, that might be a better deal than replacing all the parts on yours. Just something to think about.

Use the -34 to test each component of the alternator once you pull it apart. The TM walks you right through how to do it. If you put your leads on the battery the alternator you are testing charges, your voltage will be in the 12-15 range. Cuts down the mental math that way.

You have some wires hooked up wrong somewhere. Check out appendix F of the -20 and follow all the wires involved with starting and glowing to make sure they go to the proper place.

I was thinking about the locker thing too reading the earlier post this morning. You can sometimes get one wheel to turn, but you have to break it loose to spin. As in rock the tire front to back kind of hard and then it will go CLUNK and then let you spin one. If you didn't have to do that...

Normal carriage bolts will work on the sides. The front and rear fasten with normal nuts and bolts. Mine did not have a spacer of any kind between the frame and bed. Neither have any others I have looked at.