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Like most things in life, there are different ways to do things. I find it easier to have the bracket on the starter but loose. Start the two big bolts at the front and then bolt the bracket to the block. Once the big bolts are tight, I will tighten up the bracket.
Try anyway you can to get...
As posted above, a non air shift t case can and does work great when properly adjusted. Read the -10 and -20 about how to drive it, how to test it and how to adjust it.
No toll roads. Great idea about the axle Kenny. Pulling the front hubs would help wear and fuel cost as well. Just a few minutes with a 3/4" wrench to pull them off. This will let you look at the grease on the bearings up there too. If it is nice and clean and has grease, great. If not...
There are several threads about what to do. Basically, unplug the alternator, check the voltage at the plug with the key off and on. If they all have 12 volts with the key on and the plug off, then the truck side is probably good and you are back to testing the alternator.
Having helped drive a M35 from the other side of Atlanta to Houston. I will off the advice that I-10/I-12 between Mobile and Houston will drive you nuts. THUMP...THUMP...THUMP...THUMP...etc for 400 miles. We also ran into trouble trying to get diesel at any place not a truck stop.
Houston...
Since you have evidence of a bad alternator, swapped in a good one and the problem is the same. Maybe you have a short on the truck side of the system and it is causing your alternators to go bad. Check your voltage at the plug with the engine off and on.
4 55 gallon drums, 4 4" fence post, 4 jack stands and 1 hi lift jack. Stick the fence post under the edge of the bed but above the bed frame. Use the hi-lift to pick up the post, use the jack stand on top of the drum to hold it however high you want and move on to the other 3 corners. Drive...
Yes, you seem to have narrowed it down to alt 1. Pull the alternator apart and do the checks in the -34 manual of each component inside the alternator.
I wasn't trying to argue. The charging and starting system can still be 24 Volts while just the glow plug system has been switched over to 12V. Since your front battery seems to be taking all of the glow plug load, I thought maybe your glow plug resistor had been bypassed and the wiring...
Glad you are ok Al. Not much you can do to prevent a bad weld besides TIGing all of them before you install. Get new shoes in there, adjust them up and keep being on the look out for idiots while driving.
1 wire leaves the dimmer switch and goes to 2 lights for low and the same for hi beam. If you are getting non equal lights, then it has to be either the bulbs, the connections at the bulbs or the wires back to the dimmer switch, or the grounds. Just check everything over and over until you...
Lanty is correct about the pesky bracket needed to mount the small bucket military sealed light housing on the front of a M715. The M37, M35, M151, M38A1, Gama Goat and I don't know what all else used the same small bucket lights front and rear. They were all replaced by the big bucket lights...
Before you install it, track down some 10 bolt pto drives. I had a 202 for my M715 a few years ago and couldn't find a 10 bolt pto that wasn't a hydraulic pump drive. I wanted it to power a mechanical pto winch and ended up selling the thing.
I agree about the strength issues though. big...
I do remember the fun many of us had standing there with our hands in our pockets watching you change out tires, twice! Of course, if you had let us help like we all offered, we all could have joined in the fun.
If you do the above described test with the front axles on the trailer, you will...
Pull the power supply to the glow plug relay and see if the spark is still there when you hook/unhook the battery. If the spark is gone, then you found the area of the problem.
A stock truck uses 24V to power the glow plugs. That huge block held on by 3 bolts behind the engine on the...
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