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If I'm correct, I think on a working sensor there should be continuity between pin B and A should out of range on an empty tank. And on pressure there should be a resistance.

i think the issue might be the solenoid block itself. anyone got one for sale? i took off the exhaust hose and there is a faint amount of air coming out. the solenoid clicks, but there isn't much air coming through

Actually I got the slightly low voltage on the pressure switch by the tank. At the pressure sensor by the valve block I got over 5V , which is normal according to the troubleshooting guide. I do have a working diagnostic tool. But nothing to respond to it. The ECU pin J to Pressure transducer...

Well, I was able to establish a couple of things: -the air pressure goes up to 120PSI -the air dryer purges moisture from the center as it should. -wḣen I dump the air there is a bunch of moisture and then Ice flying from the purge valves. -the solenoid block likely doesn't have a stuck valve (i...

I have to apologize. apparently I was lying , what I've been messing with was the pressure sender of the wet tank and not the pressure transducer. That one is found on the valve body on the passenger side.

So if I understand the principle of operation of this transducer correctly it should be open in ambient air and closed under pressure, correct? I sprayed it with some stuffs and let it sit upside down for a while and then reinstall and see what happens.

All the pins on the cannon plug check out b, c and r to ground = ~60ohm all cross connections b to c, b to r and c to r =~ 120 ohm taht leaves a bad pcu pressure transducer? How do I check for that again? im getting 4.75V at the transducer plug.

That's exactly what mine does. two flashes then all 5. whether there is air in the tank or not. or full pressure. Same thing with the other good ECU. I'll grab my fluke 87 tomorrow and do some checking. thx wandering neurons

I posted earlier that the connector on the manifold has a tightened collar but the rear part of the plug is loosely moving left and right. That didn't seem to be normal to me. I think the entire plug should be solid when it's tightened on the plug

That's what I've done replaced with a known good one. I've bypassed the pressure switch before with no result will try again

I am having issues with the underlift of my m1089 wrecker. The underlift would go down only half way. I kept straying the cylinder with wd40 and exercised them up and down. Repeatedly shipping brown gunk off the cylinder and then spraying it again and exercise them some more. On one side the...

What kills me is that even with 120psi. The CTIS goes right into fault. And still does not respond to DDT

So I got the new valve in the pressure still seems to stay at 100psi I turned the governor counter clockwise about a 1/4 turn. No change. I got a new CTIS module, which also goes into fault mode. so what if the governor is bad? does someone have a replacement?

The Part number is MS-16SAE by Brand Hyd. But I can't seem to find a replacement handle. This one obviously broke due to manufacturing defect.

I pulled on the lever yesterday and it broke right off. Seems a common part but I haven't found a part number yet. Can anyone help?

I'll get a new purge valve tomorrow. It keeps blowing without getting the proper pressure. Once I got the new valve in I'll see what kind of pressure I get then. And then maybe see what the governor adjustment would do. I think the CTIS has a separate issue, since my DDT won't even connect to...

It looks like I am getting 100psi at the air tank.

Bad ECU that's what I'm thinking

So if i understand it correctly then every time I would have empty air tanks and turn on the truck it would show an error? because there isn't enough pressure? I have downloaded this DDT and it keeps saying that the ECU is not responding. Updated the driver and it still is doing the same :( I...

I actually made a mistake it's 100psi not 95psi