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I've found the easiest for me is to have a tank (we use one that's about 250 gal) setting on it's side (on a frame up off the ground) w/ a slight incline. The low end has a drain (I use a ball valve) at it's lowest point. About 6" up from that I have another drain & valve.
The tank is painted...
It's the stock mounting, and yes it flexes pretty good. That's why we had to move the cab-over rack up higher, we were denting in the corners of the hard top. Now we have about 4" clearance on the corners, . . . and someday I'll do something about those dents :|
Here's another one w/ her...
Been on our summer "road trip" (maybe I'll start a thread on that ;) ) and not really had time to update the build.
Here's some more of what was done,
The fridge in it's final, non-insulated floor, state.
To make up for some of the space that we lost upgrading to the fridge I started our...
It does work and has been done before. I have not blocked any air flow, that's what the "channel" is about. It allows air to get to all the intakes, and the exit blows toward us. If the "intake" is not getting enough air, we can use the case fan to push air to the intake (kind of like a turbo...
59, I understand and agree. I'm just adding to the insulation by making an insulated space that it slides into. As far as the air flow, they are made so that the air flow exits on the side that the lid opens on. Right, it blows into the rig. They require 4" "behind", between the wall of the...
Zout, must say that's quite a complement coming from you. I do remember the days when there was a build thread by someone that was building on TWO at the same time, a very impressive thread! Then the holocaust happened and much inspiration and knowledge was lost to us. Those that read every post...
Yesterday while working in the truck I noted this,
I have the unit set at 50deg, which means it cools down to 47deg and waits till 52deg to start again.
The inside temp was reading 105.
It would run for about 7 mins to reach the low of 47deg,
it then took about 25 mins to warm 5degs and would...
12v / 24v fridge
That's how they rate it on their spec sheet. Now that I've got it wired in to the 12v I can see the draw, it draws around 4.6-4.7 and then drops to nothing. It runs in cycles like that. Don't know the timing of the cycles, or how temps affect the cycles yet. Will know more...
Nope, AC / DC 12 or 24. We'll run it off DC most of the time. No need to be level, I think it's rated @ 1 amp draw (would have to look again), fridge/freezer. It's the style that the "expo" people have been using :)
Now it was time to get rid of the cooler, . . . no more looking for some place to get ice, or draining the water out of things that should NOT have made it down to the bottom, . . . dealing w/ moldy experiments when the cool leaves and we're still days from an ice vender. That's right, we're...
I've been living in a vehicle since `80, it's not that hard. As stated a slide-in camper or trailer (even cargo) makes a great way to have a "base camp" while you go and do other things. Elise likes her rig to be her live-in space, I prefer having a trailer, right now it's a 105 hardtop, that...
The panel has been maxing at just over 32v.
They are separate and we already have been using them from back when we first added the duel alts. Unlike the kick a$$, high tech / high cost (at least for us) stuff that you do ;), we just have a couple 6v interstates wired as a 12v. Right now they...
No, and I personally wouldn't waste power on it. We're doing ok in triple digit temps by parking the rig pointed the right way, shading the roof, putting out our 12'x12' canvas shade on the southside (off the rail), running some dc fans, . . . and the occasional wet shirt (sometimes on my head...
While we were up there we cut out the cab-over part of the rack. We moved it up about 4" and welded it back in place. We then added supports between the rear of the floor in the center, and the rails on the sides.
Now it looks like this, and it's way more rigid when we walk on it :)
The...
Now some of the latest Upgrades,
We had been having some probs w/ the cab-over rack, mostly that we did NOT have enough clearance between the hardtop and the framing of the rack. It was also starting to sag some in the middle, adding to prob #1.
This was the perfect time to do some of those...
It's a dual-alt set-up, 24v & 12v. The 12volt supplies power to batts for the living space. No dead starting batts after an extended stay somewhere, even when we have the music & lights on all night, . . . for days ;)
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