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Start with a product called "Kroil". If it's too hard to find, "Parts Blaster" is a very close second, though it's harder on rubber and paint.
Heating the motor, and the affected area will help. You don't need insanely hot, just enough to let the metal expand a bit and the penetrant oil to get...
Been working on this M38A1, and as the layers of paint come off I keep finding semigloss black as the base coat on frame, front and rear diffs and suspension components. (The body seems to be that typical semi OD).
Was this the factory finish that was oversprayed pre issue, or would the vehicle...
Pulling the driver's side fender would probably help, along with the header's downpipe.
Again, I'd bolt up a direct reading gauge before going that far.
The measurements you saw are intended to keep an old pump from being bolted to a freshly overhauled engine.
Most of the larger truck/implement places that I've contacted are more in the nature of 'R&R', instead of rebuilding. Given that this is a late 50's PS unit, most just say "no, it's too old". Smaller PS places so far just wish me luck.
Been checking yards for an alternate, but it has to turn...
Seconding(thirding?) the use of a direct reading gauge. Find one that reads more in the range that F-head's pump, 0~50 PSI.
One I have in read zero on the dash gauge at idle, but with a known good direct reading gauge indicated 10 pounds idle and near 45 at cruise.
So, run the gauge first. If...
Walked out and measured on the one I'm working on.
Pretty consistent .050"/1.27mm, measured five places on the fender.
There is effictively no rust on these fenders.
Thanks for the backlink, I need to resize most of my images.
Just background/fyi- the truck dates from the late 50's early 60's and was intended to replace the then current 2.5 ton vehicles. 8 wheel drive, 8 wheel independent suspension on torsion bars, 4 wheel power steering. Engine is a...
Need some help getting this box rebuilt.
Obviously a Ross box, but it has no model or type numbers in the usual places. (just a single stamp, either "O" or "Zero".)
Internally it's a HPS (702990 is the main housing cast number) but the main housing is aluminum.
Internals are scrap...
Got one in the shop. Basically all there but needs a lot of TLC and the little bits. (saddle bags, that map holder doohickey for the tank, one of the iso mounts for the exhaust, etc).
Got emails in to people who used to import and sell them, but any of youall know of a source of parts?
Thanks-
There is an XM211 I do work on that has a mechanical switch. Thought it was added, but it has the proper Mil connectors, etc.
Will try and grab pictures, because I'm not a fan of the hydro switches. A mechanical, pedal actuated switch you can set up to give a 'warning' to someone in con behind...
Just a note, be careful who you field the airpack out to. Had one come in that was obviously a rattlecan refurb.
All shiny black outside, didn't work, full of rust inside.
If everything seems tight, check the output shaft of the steering box.
Look for cracks.
Posted images, the truck always had the shakes but everything seemed tight.
Luckily the shaft broke at walking speed. Thank god it didn't happen at highway speeds.
One I have in the shop-
The fine thread bolts attaching the fenders to the frame were the only ones that fought, a zap of PB once they were started then a cup of coffee while it worked, did the trick.
One I've run into with M211's using external pumps, is the standpipe that ran from the top of the pump housing to where the pump used to be , coming loose or cracking.
Another thing to check is the air hose/SCAT hose from filter to carb, as I've seen these collapse internally and choke out the...
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