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Penetrant and spot heat. I use a butane soldering iron with the tip removed. Kroil or PB penetrant. and let it sit a bit. Tapping with a small hammer around the screw countersink helps. Then use a screwdriver with a wrench bolster, as you can tighten then loosen to break the rust and layers of...

Nope. Link?

Remove the three slotted screws, then pull it off. You may have to back the adjusters off if the drums are really worn. Also, it sometimes rusts to the flange of the hub, so a little penetrant and tapping (not bashing it with a sledge) will loosen it from the hub.

If the MMO won't get it, there is always Kroil, though it's a lot more expensive. (though if it's stuck bad enough that MMO wont loosen it, you're probably better off tearing it down) Draining all the oil and filling (To the top) it with diesel has worked for me in the past. You have to let it...

It is a RF shielded plug. The "waterproofing" comes from a silicone/rubber finger that goes inside the ceramic insulator, in the steel barrel. (think of the opposite of a "normal" spark plug). AlfaHeaven carries the correct AC shielded plug for 12.00 each. So you might want to pull yours and...

Most of the A2's I've seen, do this to one extent or another when decellerating. Never seemed to be an issue for longevity. On accecelleration, that's a lean carb condition, then timing/misfiring, then burned intake valves (in order of potential).

Fuel lines. I'm betting you have an air leak, the pump is sucking air which compounds vapor locking. I have seen some bad "replacement" ignitor unit coils turning up, but what you described sounds like the pump is sucking a little too much wind.

You probably could have used those plastic trim rivets, or "fir trees" as well.

here's the dimensions of the one I've got out. maker is Harrison.

Working on a customer's M38 engine, and when I opened the ignitor, got a strong whiff of old gas. Everything was juicy with the stuff. Images tell more- I'll get images of the cap, but you can see that some combustion had been occasionally going on in there. The 'waterline' on the coil is...

Holy Christmas, wish I'd known this earlier. Had a friend go through a bit of nonsense dealing with a builder who basically rattlecanned his airpack, and charged him around $200 dollars for the pleasure. Filing this away in the " YOU WILL NEED THIS INFO " folder.

Considering it, though I have no idea where I'd park it. Most of the spare space is full of other people's vehicles right now. Love to find a maintenance bed for it. I'm betting that thing has a good coat of Strata blue under the gloss white.

Picking up parts, when I came across this. Did a double take til I realized what I was seeing.

Ahh, gotcha.

You know how small 1/72 scale is, right? Matchbox cars are about 1/64. This is smaller.

Really? I'm using the Wix 51100, and have very little problem keeping them on the shelf. The local store I use always has a case of them, seems they were used on more than just military vehicles. Most chain stores should be able to order you a half dozen or so.

the Cuno was a filter element with a knife edge scraper IIRC. Turning the T-handle on the top of the housing would rotate the element against the knife edge and scrape the crud off, where it'd fall to the bottom of the housing. You still would have to replace the elements eventually though, and...

Will give both a try, thanks! My regular sources mainly deal with WW2 repro stuff, so a M38A1 is just new enough that decals, etc seem not to get the coverage.

An update, a company called "Lares Corporation" says they can rebuild it. Seems the HPS 70 series were used on some of the heavier Ford trucks. Still need to get down to Tucson though, just trying to catch up on work first.

Need oil lines, that bracket that goes around the carb, and little stuff like decals, etc for finishing the resto on this F-head. Any suggestions? Thanks!