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The PW and the M-37 have very very different bodywork. What you got in those pics is someone just playing around. Akin to slapping a MB hood ornament on a Lincoln.

Depending on the state of your engine, a single vis 40 weight may just cause the pump bypass to open at lower temps. Your film strength may be greater, but so is it's resistance to pumping. This means that for a moment on a cold 'dry' start (as in it's sat over a long weekend, and you're below...

By using aftermarket gauges with nonmetallic bodies and isolated grounds? Just a guess.

While you have the rear tires off, pull the drums. "pop"+ "chirp" sounds like brakes to me. I've seen the "U" shaped retainer clips, and old rusted springs fail, fall off and wedge between the drum and shoe, and cause just what you described.

Some gaskets, you had to soak in light oil or kerosene before use, but I doubt that is the case with the head gaskets on the 6.2. Also, the torque wrench. Was it one of those old parallel bar wrenches? A dial indication or a click break? The old parallel bar wrenches are okay for wheel nuts...

Betting that the time between coats was too short, (like others mentioned). Before painting aircraft , I'd have a small can of MEK, and a fine scotch-brite pad. I'd dip the scotch brite in the MEK, let it evaporate some, then gently scuff the surface. Repeat this often, and blow the dust off...

Kurt Ziebart lived within a stone's throw of me , when I lived in Michigan. It was a two part process IIRC, a light oil, kind of like LPS-1, then a gummy, waxy stuff thinned with mineral spirits. "Waxoil" or "Waxoyl" I think. Smelled like floor polish to me. For the most part it was...

If they arent too rusty, you can "restack" them, but I'm betting you'd be better served with a new assembly. I used to take the leaves from old Land Cruisers and grind a radiused channel in the side to use them on my 81 Toyota HiLux. 20/20 hindsight, way too much work for too little return.

I remember seeing new S-10's and S-15's with horrible corrosion all over the underbodies and chassis, within a few months of being "new". Michigan winters were not kind to most machinery, but those got rusty fast.

Ahh. Ye of the Lucas school of automotive wiring.

Sigs- Replace the switch. If you're REAALLY keen with the hemostats you can sometimes persuade the tiny contacts to realign and get another week of use out of that switch, but in the long run, just throw a new switch in there. If the switch really goes bad, not only will you lose turn signals...

The scrap/resale value of the radial engine cowling parts in the bed should help the project along nicely.

You're being kind. I'd offer the guy a note, and that's my top. But yeah, I'd part it out as well. Rust like that, indicates a parts truck to me.

I sure wouldnt, not with that kind of rust. That thing has a bad case of metal-worms.

Your description of near fist sized rust out near the driver's seat, and loads of rust elsewhere would make me want to look at another. Sure the rusted parts are repairable, but what's that going to cost? Can you weld? Are you going to do the work or field it out? That all adds up fast. You're...

You can kind of fudge that fastener with a panhead slotted and a thin washer centered on the shank and turned down a bit to act as a spacer. The original screw had a short stepped shoulder that the bushed area rode on. IIRC they were a 1/4"X20 TPI. Personally I like to use a slightly longer...

Seconding the starter relay conversion. The original relay is probably the weakest and goofiest relay application I've encountered in any military vehicle so far.

I'd substitute a known good head, and see if it's repeatable. Same deal, I'm wrong and you need a cable. if it behaves, your original head is bad. Not sure I'd rebuild the speedo, rather find a NOS or known good one and drop it in. I can't see them being uncommon.

Cable likely is fine, but the head is misbehaving. Only time I've seen a cable cause what you've described (remotely) was an old unlubed one that was winding up like a torsion spring, and making the head "bounce". What you've described is the speedo head unit going south though.

A lot of the real, industrial strength solvents are very corrosive. The Zep blue for example. Keep that off skin in an undiluted form, unless you like feeling your flesh turning to soap. So you have "Joe" (Who is a **** of a guy) douching the engine bay of a truck he thinks he knows something...