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Loads of absolute garbage "New" CUCV starters out there. I scrounged two cores and had them rebuilt, just because I got sick of returning the very pretty looking, but useless "new" ones.

There are some "aftermarket" starters floating around that are plain junk. Beware of them as well. They too will do the "spin, no engage" routine without breaking the nose housing.

Do you hear the engine losing RPM? or is it a matter of "feel"? Not saying it isin't an engine issue, but I'd also check the rest of the driveline. Trans issues can make you feel like you're losing power, and in bad cases a damaged/worn/improperly lubed diff can do it as well. being an...

Glad to hear. That's not mine, it's the owner of the two vehicles. I just keep them running (though if you listen you can hear the leaky exhaust manifold gasket on the '211). I'll pass on your encouragement to the person who deserves it though, Thanks!

Not much of a road trip, maybe 100 odd miles total, but still fun. Most of the trails in the video were meant for quads or smaller vehicles. The 211 performed as expected, handling grades the M151 had problems with. https://vimeo.com/53345230

Gotcha. In that case, I'd just change where you tap your 12V to off the solenoid.

At a glance, looks okay, but you're not going to be able to turn your headlights on with the ignition off, but your turn signals will work all the time. (backwards, unless you want ignition off hazards and have a Sig-Stat box of some kind, and at that point IIRC they have a separate hazard power...

Not sure what or why, but I sure do encounter a lot of 151's with low/no gear oil in the trans.

/\ This, except I used stainless steel aircraft safety wire. Lots of aircraft windscreens are stuck in place with stuff that makes windshield sealant look like play-doh.

Considering MMO was mainly intended to be an oil additive, and a fuel dope for gas engines, I'm not at all shocked at this.

Good luck, sorry I couldn't be of more help.

If it runs with the cover off, then that's as far as I can offer without you springing me a ticket to Chicago.

Looks like a good score. There's a few turning up at Huachuca in a bit, tempted to try and snag one.

Make sure the cover is installed correctly, as Doghead mentioned, because the only other thing it could be then is the solenoid not moving the shutoff lever.

Take some carb cleaner and make sure the check valve in that fitting is not stuck. make sure it moves easily. Take a VOM and make sure the -tab- for the CO solenoid is not grounding to the cover in any way. Make sure you have proper voltage to the lead. Don't just hit it with a test light...

There's another kind of radiator pressure test. Pressurize the system, if it leaks note rate of leak. Start the engine, and note the difference, and any sudden or repeated rises.

Marvel Mystery Oil. use a fairly stout dose, I've used a 1/5 to 1/6 by volume dose for problem engines. Check the oil frequently, and be ready to change the oil at half the normal interval. Additives like Zmax, etc are more for the bearing and reciprocating areas, and contain ingredients...

Could be, I'd still lean toward a valve that's getting sticky first, since it's an easier fix. sometimes a stout dousing with MMO in the oil clears it up Once you've proven the valves arent sticking, then you're sure it's the IP. If you mount a new IP and it's still doing it, is it the valves...

Subdued irregular "puffing" or "putting" out the exhaust at idle is usually indicative of a sticking valve(s).

Theres an awful lot of just plain crappy repop coils out there. Had a M-37 in that went through three in a stretch. Stuff like badly soldered terminals to the entire top of the housing popping loose. So you can't always count on the replacement being "known good" just because it's new.