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Consider what I've seen evaporust do to gaskets, I'd say no. I've used a GM coolant system flush with good results, but be warned it's nasty stuff. If you have a marginal cooling system, it will make every minor leak into a noticeable one.

Excellent find, I'd love to have one of those kits in the shop. As it is, this is the only tool I've ever found in a M-37.

Bump from the dead- The '211 is back so here's a pic of the mechanical brake switch install. You can see the rubber coated lever behind the brake pedal against the floorpan. That cylindrical part is the switch.

Seen similar caps on USAF trucks in Misawa. I got the impression it was a sub for the soft top where the weather was usually snowy/wet.

A bench test with no load, just hitting it with 24 volts and noting that it spins won't tell you if you have a damaged commutator. Until you can duplicate the "dead short" with a known good starter, your present starter is the likely culprit.

Ohh! Hang onto that, I just had to make a crank for a M-37! One never knows when one will need a good crankin.

1- Charge the batteries fully. 2- Find the starter relay. It's on the dash, just above the shifter on a bracket. Then with your hand on the relay, try to start. If it's hot, or doesn't click, it's bad, and possibly so is your starter .(the "click" the relay makes is VERY quiet, you need to feel...

The Jeep's owner came by , took a look inside and said "yeah, pull it".

It's a worn section, not broken away. It's a customers, so it'll get replaced. I'm still trying to figure out if he actually paid money for this "rebuilt transmission", cause I saw a lot of rust and pitting in there, and no builder I know would have left that worn shift rod in there.

What you do is put a string through the wristpin bore, and have the culprit wear that piston as a tribute to his cleverness.

This was a "new" or "rebuilt" transmission, according to the owner. When I got it in, it wouldn't shift from 2~3 to 1~R. Pics say it all.

If you don't clean up those wheels when they're dismounted, you're just shooting yourself in the foot. Seen loads of split rims where the guy was too lazy or cheap to get the scaly rust off, and suffered the death of a million cuts via weekly flat repairs. It's also a safety measure. You want...

In defense of the Quadrajet- Depends on how you drive. A properly set up Q-Jet is a fantastic mileage carb, as long as you keep your foot out of the secondaries. But if you don't have access to the metering orifices and needles, and you know how to set one up, you'll have driveability issues...

Rivnuts or blind nuts don't take to high torque well, unless you use the keyed ones.

paying attention to the cut end of the line, making sure it's cleaned up, etc will go a long way to producing a serviceable double with even a mediocre tool. Seen people turn out a lot of crappy, split doubles with a beautiful benchtop flaring tool.

Depends a lot on your climate, and how /where you drive. Seen everything from SAE 40 single, to 5W30 synthetic run in the 151 mill.

Yes, it's a M-35. But it's a 1955, M-35 .

If you've worked on enough British stuff, you end up with SAE, Metric and BSF/BSW. Metric/SAE mixes are a mild annoyance at worst, once you've dealt with enough of both.

It's been hacked, a lot. Maybe if you had another GTB and needed some parts it'd be a find, but not as a first.

This-Very Yes. Even if the issue turns out to be something else, take the time to replace that rinky-dink relay with something a skosh more durable.