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I used to bottom out a cylinder til just before the compression stroke and feed in some jute or similar natural fiber twine through the plug hole, then bring the piston up compressing the jute and locking the engine. Made changing valve guide seals on a lot of engines much easier, as I didn't...

The seal is above the plane of the pan, contained in the saddle that holds the rear main bearing as well. Most of the problems with rear mains in the F-134 seems to come from undersize/worn crankshaft seal surfaces and some poorly made lip type seals.

This is very much a circumstance where I'd like to be proven wrong. Where it's a simple fix. Good luck , Rodmayo.

You have a bigger problem than a stuck crankcase vent system. Oil puking out the bellhousing is usually a rear main seal. I forget if there's any lube passages or plugs back there, but you need to address that issue before driving it much more.

Doing that, dropped the Delco off at a local rebuilder, and an RMA for the other one is supposedly enroute. I'm going to collect a core or two from someone I know and have one or two rebuilt for shop stock. I'm sure I'll see another fried CUCV starter. As to the priming, was working on that...

Cause it's messy, and a lot of people are afraid of that kind of work.

Seconding this. Those 38A1 engines don't have a timing chain, so it's not a chain clattering. Another consideration is the fuel pump, though you said you checked that.

This. Had more than a few GM products of that era come in with trashbags over windows that wouldnt roll up, power locks that wouldnt, etc. K.I.S.S. definitely applies here.

The Ambulance I'm dealing with was run dry, so the starter is going to get a workout. As it is it never even saw a few minutes of use before it went belly up. At first I blamed the silly little GM relay, wired in a heavy four pole starter relay, but made zero diff, starter would still...

Well ****, I wanted to take the first one and have it rebuilt, but some folks here (locally, not SS) said "Buy new". " im running a brandnew gear reduction starter (PART#6598N)Series 28MT i have had had it 2 years and havent had any problems i bought mine from a company called Coastal...

The "heavy duty" starter I got from Amazon seems to be defective (Solenoid actuates, Motor spins but the fork hasn't shifted the gear far enough forward it seems) Installed a real starter relay already after the current owner toasted the laughable original along with the first starter...

There is (was) an accessory fuel pressure regulator out there, had one on a 66 Nissan Patrol. But it's a bright chromed gizmo, and I think you need to look at the carb again. "Readjust the carb", is my first suggestion. if that doesn't do it, pull the carb and check the float level. Then all...

Behold! The power of SIX WHEEL DRIVE!

Okay, you had a major change in performance while running? That's (as others mentioned) is almost always ignition related. Carb issues are usually of the "creeping crud" variety (though with some of the crap gas today, not a hard and fast rule!). Pull the cap, and check the rotor , and the...

Right, all you're doing is eliminating the "old" carb from what's causing the stumbling and crazy idle. If it runs better with the "new" carb, you've found the source of the trouble. Rebuilt or not, if it's not working right you're not getting anywhere, and having the old carb overhauled or...

You can confirm the air leak by spraying the area around the shaft with something like MMO or motor oil. I'd remove the linkage and set up the base idle before doing this though, to eliminate any springback caused by the linkage. Your part incompatability may stem from putting parts from one...

If it's bottomed to get things to run, you have other issues. Remove the screw, and look for damage to it's tip. If it's damaged, you might try a new one. If it's flooding at idle, check the fuel pump pressure. I've seen some cases where the return line orifice is too small, and the pump is...

Pushing on the linkage toward closed, causing a change in RPM is linkage out of adjustment, followed by a worn throttle body. if the body is worn, they can be bushed and the shaft replaced. The stumbling on accecelleration can be a lot of issues, including plain bad gas.

Glad to help MASH, good luck with the work. Seconding AT63, if you have problems with one side, you have problems with both, unless it's a "GET ME HOME!" repair.

You should be able to separate the drums from the hubs, unless they're really jammed on. They fit snug to the hub, but are removeable.