Search results

Seconded.

One of the things I had beaten into me when I was a wee madman and got caught trying to 'soup up' the lawnmower was "If it ain't broke, don't fix it".

It's a very very very good idea to pull those. If you see a radiator with a bunch of dents and dings on the engine side, that's usually from not pulling em.

I bet he never forgets to check his trans fluid. As to the mod failure? Depends on the color and volume of the smoke. I've seen cooler lines fail and spray on a header or exhaustpipe and make a pretty good imitation of the Thunderbirds.

I think the real point of Marcus's post was that when you have copious volumes of smoke pouring from your truck, you don't press on. Sure, the modulator can fail in that manner, but it's a moot point now that he's got a tranny pan full of stinky cake mix.

You can try a filter and fluid fix, but I'm going to bet you cooked the trans. At best, your trans is damaged, and while a filter and fluid may make it driveable it is on the way out. At worst, you'll change the fluid and filter and it still won't move.

Again, just because the CO solenoid moves does not mean it's good. It has to hold that lever back as long as the engine is running, and it may not be strong enough now.

Mind your driveshaft speed when keeping the diff ratio high, and installing an OD trans.

Alcohol was killer to the material as well. Some rebuilders were shooting themselves in the foot using it as a solvent.

Here's one partially mounted, and a crappy diagram pointing it out in the pump.

/\ This. Try the solenoid first. If it duplicates with a new/known good solenoid, then you've confirmed you have a dying IP.

I'd double check the cutoff solenoid, off the truck. I bet it's weak or bad.

"the government tracked the truck down and removed the insturment panel. They actually cut the speedo cable." Radium? And the goons had sidecutters but couldn't be bothered to bring pliers?

Depends on how it's failing. the coil could be shorting in a way that still generates a field that allowed operation, but as it broke down, would reach a point where it clicks, but lacks the force to move the lever. Starter solenoids sometimes will do the same thing, where thy move enough to...

No, I've had some where it clicks, but is not moving far enough to allow operation.

You're removing what the pink wire operates, and the pump now has only the throttle as control. You'd have to shut it off by using a screwdriver to move the cutoff lever normally actuated by the solenoid. And yes it make a bit of a mess, like I said earlier. But if it starts with the cover...

Did you try starting with the cover removed?

1- will it start and idle well? 2- if you let the gas pedal up slowly, will it return to a stable idle?

This is a last ditch method - Act accordingly. Clean the outside of the IP, then pull the top cover. make sure there's fuel in it's sump and that it's clean in there. Try starting. If it starts, it will make a bit of a mess, but you then know that the IP is doing it's job. I'm going to bet...