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ended up cutting all that stuff off. It was pretty rotted anyway. Need to get some 5" long 3/8" bolts for center pins. The 3.5" ones supplied from ORD were way too short. Would have worked if I wanted to sacrifice the 3 bottom leafs for a half ton ride but I want to keep it HD.

Had a similar problem. Ended up being a cracked vaccume line between the ip and tranny. Was right at the ip. Cut 1" off the hose and lt has been fine since. Not sure how a non computer tranny and injection system would act that way but no problems since fixing the hose

I'm in the process of installing zero rates and ubolt reversal on my M1008. My question is do you remove the two inner spring clamps that hold the bottom 3 leafs and the thin plates on the top and bottom? The new top plate won't quite fit in between them but I would think you wouldn't just want...

Thanks Rich. I was hoping it was 3.5 as that is the only way to go with the pressed center. Was the legal issue the pressed center or was it because they are split rims. Seems crazy either way. Great looking rig and thanks for the good info.

I have a M1008 with 5" lift using 4" HD rough country + Zero rates up front and ORD shackle flip + zero rates in the back. I want to order 12 bolt HMMWV wheels from trailworthy fab but unsure about what backspacing to recenter to. Also wondering which center is better: curved press in or flat...

NEW BELTS INSTALLED ARE: Power steering gates 7450 Right alternator gates 7485 Left alternator Gates 7575

Waiting for the afterglow to stop before exciting the alternator helped. I switched over to gates belts two months ago and haven't had a squeak since. Even if I accidently excite the alt on startup.

Would like to go 205 but already have the 208 which would allow me to keep my stock drive shafts. Probably going that route for now for simplicity and the cash flow.

I have read ( I think on ck5) that the he AA bells require machine work to adapt to the CUCV. Do they have a driver side slave bell that will bolt right up without modding the bell or starter?

Jesus! I'm going to need a flow chart and PowerPoint presentation before I bite the bullet on parts. I guess at this point of confusion My hopes are to find a 92-95 3500 diesel with a nv4500 in it. Scoff all parts for turbo and manual conversion. Is there any reason those parts wouldn't work?

Pm sent not sure if it went through

Much less belt squeal starting that way thanks.

At this point all I know is it's a 24v stuffed into an auto transmission so I'm assuming it has the small nose cone. Didn't know I could just swap out nose cones. Good to know. Thanks again.

I removed the firewall resistor and fed the plugs with 12v. I understand that taxes one battery more rather than drawing evenly on the two but it didn't seem to affect the charging delay. I did use the starting method you suggested and got a lot less belt squeal after throttle blip so thanks for...

Thanks barrman! That clears up a lot for me.I have a 4" lift in the mail but I'm guessing that won't be enough to clear a passenger side slave. I have read the Cucv starters will work on the big flywheel if you grind the nose cone.

Huh, the alternators on both my tractor and sawmill won't start charging until given throttle so I assumed this was the same. I will definitely try that in the am. Thanks.

I understand what both alternators do and that the second one needs a little blip of throttle to excite but mine has a strange startup ritual. Both alt lights work when key is turned, one stays on after started and until throttle blip. The part I don't understand is even after the second light...

I have been trying to round up parts for a nv4500 swap for my M1008. It is seeming like a dead end street for me as I can't even find a pedal assembly in a scrapyard (thanks Obama for cash for clunkers). I am a little lost on which bellhousing will work. Some say any small block Chevy and others...

There are probably 100 pick n pull yards in this tiny state. I am striking out other than the guys that want $350 for a pedal assembly out of a picked over rig they paid $0-$200 for complete. I was unaware you could post in different Cucv categories. With my computer skills I'm lucky I figured...

Thanks, I kinda figured this much but was hoping it would bolt right up. Having a hard time finding a square body pedal assembly that they don't want $400 for (highway robbery). Thanks for confirming the flywheel.