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Check out TM 9-2920-225-34 and TM 9-2920-225-34P, Both available on SS for download. Gives all you'd ever want to know. The brushes do get greasy if the seal on the rear bearing has failed. The carbon will absorb oil.............

among other things, not to mention here, memory, ability to spell. you know, things like that.

Probably any generator/starter rebuild shop would be the first guess. I use paint thinner to get all the grease off the brush. It doesn't have to soak just wipe it off clean. A Q-tip with some thinner will clean out the brush holder. Try not to get thinner on the commutator or windings. The...

A copper washer is a good idea, however the TM and parts manual doesn't mention them, just lock washers. As far as the vent, good question, there isn't one........ BTW Tom ,you guys do some nice transmission work.!!

It's surprising how many people don't realize that there are brushes (1) in these alternators

I used TF-15 by jet lube of Canada on each bolt. 5 bolts hold the bell housing to the gear box and 4 bolts hold the bearing cap. I think loctite makes a great thread sealant that would work fine. Make sure the vent is clear.

Around the input shaft there are bolts that hold the bell housing to the gearbox and the input shaft bearing cap in place. Each hole is a bore through to the inside of the gear box. If the bolts are installed without sealant they will eventually leak. My M35a2 leaked like mad, figured it was...

Ulf, Here are a couple of pictures of my rear differential. One shows one of the joints there is one on each end of the box. The other shows the complete gear box in place. The arrows show the joints I'm talking about. The gearbox rotates, with the wheel suspension, in these joints. I used a...

It seems an overlooked item concerning these alternators is the fact that they have a brush. I've had two fail because the brush had either worn down too short to reach the com. or had gummed up and did not contact the com. Check out TM 9-2920-225-34, both found here on SS

Ulf, Make sure the rear diff in the tractor is greased. It rotates with the suspension and will seize if not greased. This will make the Goat sit a little sideways after a corner or off road trip. And make a load pop when breaking loose. (Not Good). There is a zerk fitting at each joint front...

That's OK! It'll get worse as you get older, trust me.

No bronze bushing on the rear axle. Two on each end of the front.

Anyone have a picture of a M543A2 in Navy colors???

According to our Cummins dealer/shop. The NHC Cummins came from the factory in the late 60's and 70's with Cummins gray. I've seen several in the can, nonrebuilt that were gray. It's a real dark gray. Cummins sells it as Cummins Gray. The newer 400's etc were tan or beige.

Great Ulf, I have a bunch of pictures I took as I did mine, there are also pictures on Gamagoat.com. Let me know if I can help.

Ulf, The center Diff. has pivot joints on it's front and rear. It pivots with the tractor rear suspension. If they haven't been greased they stick and make a terrible crack when trying to move. There is a shim on the rear pivot joint that was left out on many vehicles. Check this, if it's not...

There's nothing to making a new one, the hard part is finding the material to make the diaghram then punching all those little holes. They are really fun rigs if you like tinkering on machines. Lots to fine tune.

Hey DRGREG, What altitude are you? He's up here in the rare atmosphere where you have to add oxygene to get it to run like out on the coast. But your'e right , the tires look neat but don't help when there is so little HP available.

ULF, Your Goat looks GREAT!! Did you figure out the little trouble you were having??

Very Normal. Not much horsepower to weight ratio.,especialy on the M816........ Mine does the same here in Colorado at around 7ooo ft where I live.