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Back in the mid 90s when I had my M211 I redid the brakes on her, New master, rebuilt air pack, and all new wheel cylinders and some new lines (all the rubber ones and a couple of metal ones that broke). When it came time for bleeding I had to bleed them, test drive, bleed again, test drive...

I'd say get a bore scope (camera) and peak inside each cylinder and see if there is any damage or pieces sitting in there. If so R&R as needed and drive on. If all is good get new glow plugs and drive on. I would also check your start box again to make sure it's working properly and then get...

And when you give one to Maddawg I'll take one too... :)

You could always have HD color match your canvas and then paint with that. The hard part is getting a small enough sample of the canvas or having them hold the door on their computer.

Just wondering if you could split the difference between 3" and 2" and go like 2.5". The extra half an inch might help with getting in and out. I'm just wondering is all.

It should be plug and play for the most part. You will have at least two wires that will have to go from one side to the other but it's just follow the numbers (if they are still there). Left Taillight should be Service Stop, Service Tail, Blackout Tail Light Wire # 21 - Service Tail Wire #...

As for the original question. All I can say is look around for a civilian Dodge Power wagon of the same era and you might find an axle or at least the pumpkin with the lower gear ratios that you are looking for. You might be able to swap the axle that way...but it's not going to an easy find...

When you get to the data plate stage don't forget you have a M718A1 and not an M718. A1 where built on the m151A2 body and 718s where built on the M151A1 body. Confusing isn't it?

It will not hurt to run a grounding wire from the antenna base to the frame of the vehicles. MV bodies are known to have poor grounding so adding an extra ground in will not hurt the radio or the electrical system of the vehicle and may even improve your lighting system.

Just wondering what that bad boy set you back? That looks great.

Check the TM and see if it says anything on trouble shooting the fuel system. It may give you what you need to get it closer to accurate.

I have owned both M151A1a and M151a2s. The A2 rear suspension gave the driver more body roll and therefor helped the driver "feel" if they started to over steer. Personally I enjoyed the ride of the A1 over the A2 as the ride to me was smother than the A2. The A2 had a "jeep" feel to it where...

Pictures or it doesn't exists! I mean common if you've rebuilt a M151A2 you need to post some pics of it. Unless you did and I've just missed it.

Looks like you found or had the correct bed. Truck looks good and seems to being running well. Great Job. A little OD paint and everyone will want one... :)

Merc or nato it's the same technique. And as my grandma use to say about mistakes, "nobody is going to see it on a galloping horse!"

Just do a google search for HMMWV and click on images. You'll get tons of pictures, then you'll see just forest green, 3 color Nato camo, desert sand, but there are also some flat black, gloss black, flat light gray, flat dark gray, I saw one in fire engine red and a couple in graphic wraps. I...

I've always free handed it. I know the instruction manual for the 4 color MERC patterns said to use a chalk pencil or soap to lay out the pattern, but I have always felt that that would lead to a messy job (at lease for me) so I just free handed it and they have come out good IMHO. If you are...

Nice work so far! Wow, did you have to do any work to the body or was it just that nice? That is one of the nicest bodies I've seen. Keep up the good work and keep us posted.

I have to agree it sounds like your coil went south. Try to get a a good G.I. US. made coil and replace and enjoy your ride.