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Use synthetic oil only if you hare in a high heat situation (over 250F) otherwise you are wasting money. GL-1 is a poor choice.. its straight oil with no additives save some anti-foaming. You want all the additives you can get to reduce wear/friction/foaming/going rancid etc. Your deuce has...
You do need to keep a certain current... the larger the surface, the more current you need to push. You are litterally shooting electrons from one part to another... a big flat part needs LOTS of current and can quickly overload a power supply (water is essentially a dead short).
I got the quote back for the engine decals for the GMC270 used on the CCKW (and DUKW). These are water slip laquer decals that are only available from one or two companies in the US.
There will be two sets available: One will include the early round oil filter logo decal, the other will...
Split the difference and go for 1/8th in.. that's the number I see in other TM's.
King pins are another suspect... basically your wheels are not being held straight and tight allowing them to wobble. You should be seeing tire cupping also.. so start wiggeling things like tie rods, hubs...
Google Rex Ward.. he's big in DUKWs in the UK. He may have parts, pictures or even know of one.
WOW, that is the proverbial hens tooth. Good job on saving it.
Get an oil sample. Spend the $30 to see whats floating in the oil. If it won't start then crack the small drain plug.
If it comes back normal then you have a better ideas on the internals.
Not really a new process. I've used it for over 4 years. Lye works the best... but washing soda is a good substitute.
Its not really for large parts as the removal is line of sight... so using a slight acid (vinegar, molasses etc) works much better for nooks and crannies.
Plus you must be...
Schneider. Some people hate them, others love them. I don't think they are any better or worse than any other company. My brother started with them and as a starting point they get you miles. Till you get miles in your log I wouldn't expect anything super to come along.
You could always...
Does the seller have any more totes for $40? That's an insane price for here in PA. I cannot find them for less than $100. I could use 2 more. I have 4 now and the **** things are just so useful. Stacking them is just a huge bonus.
I only sometimes see a blue tint in the smoke at idle when I have gear oil in the tank. I have been slowly burning off 250 gallons of WMO and gear oil and see no real difference in power or smoke (other than what I mentioned).
I ran 100% WMO from Gordon to Ft. Drum and did 55 all the way up...
Its a running chassis. Having once been a ST-5 or ST-6 shop variant is of little consequence as all the shop van specific parts appear to be gone (fuel tank, spare tire carrier, the actual shop bed.)
Shipping is $3 a mile, so you just doubled the price (at least) for anything other than an...
A full tote is just over a ton (8 * 275 = 2200) so you will need to be aware of the weight. If you fill it up that should eliminate sloshing and you are just dealing with a 2200 load and its inertia.
Without a forklift you are not moving a full tote. If you have debris free oil then a trash...
I will be bringing an M105A2 if not sold before and the hardware (only) for deuce cargo seats (no headboard). I cut all the wood off so its just the metal.
I am looking for Army Motors (the originals) and will pay top dollar for issues.
CCKW parts are always of interest. I also need a rifle...
I had already read most of those links and when you read all of them none of them cite the same mechanical problem that water would cause. Some say microbes, others say lubrication issues etc. Seeing that none of the 'articles' really 'agree' I really don't give them much weight. If water...
After I redid the hub seals I used a laser temp sensor on the drums/hubs and after a 15 minute drive and right after stopping (about 2-3 minutes) I say anywhere from 180F to 220F
That's kinda hot.. but it was 90F+ out and I was in the sun so how much was friction heat and how much was the sun...
Maybe its the additives then... but I cannot filter gear oil as quick as motor oil. Gear oil will almost ball up in the poly filter and take much longer to get through a 5 and 1 micron filter. Oil I essentially pour through. These bag filters are much finer mesh than anything in the deuce.
The carbon in used oil is less than 1 micron... so unless you centrifuge it or polish it through multiple 1 micron filter passes its always there.
I don't think that it would wipe out a IP that quick... unless it was on the edge of failure anyway.
My take is is gear oil is typically 80/90...
In WWII the 1.5 ton G506 (Chevy) was made into a tractor by removing the bed and adding a 5th wheel. I don't know the rating but there are some pictures showing some might heavy trailers.
The CCKW was also converted into a tracktor (the bolster truck) for moving pontoon boats... not a heavy...
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