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Check your fluid levels.. the low one is probably it. There are a couple things that can source oil on the passenger side:
slobber tube (engine oil)
Axle vent (gear oil)
The brake master cylinder and air pack vents are routed up the left side (but may have been changed)
Knuckle boot
There...
Without grit water will at best wear down a surface over a VERY long time. A pressure washer uses the un-compressibility of water to exert the force generated by the the pump.
A home pressure washer is 2000psi.... yet I can't cut much with it.
Otherwise hydraulic systems would eat...
The TM has the correct FULL and EMPTY ohm readings. I don't have it on me, but it in there.
I don't know if you can get to the rheostat to clean it, but gounds are the quick and easy thing to check. There should be one wire coming from the fuel pump assy to the frame.
Not to pick nits, but ALL bearing will 'go bad in a matter of time'. If the bearing is serviceable, use it. If its not, then replace it.
Knowledge = blindly replace both bearings
Wisdom = knowing which bearing is bad and keeping the the good one. :-D
Check the TM, search this site. The frame is just steel. NOTHING SPECIAL about it.
The steel in the Titanic was to brittle. Nothing to do with anything other than not fully understanding the new process they were using for the steel.
The answer you seek is on this site. You don't have to...
Lets see, seals are $50 an axle if you can get them that cheap. Bearings are about $100 each (x4). New brake pads are about what.. $50? $75?
You might want to buy a used axle and get good used parts... you might come out ahead.
I guess the blooper reel will include the part where they try to parallel park and back up with an M105 trailer?
Its good they have an interest in more than the internet.
Please explain?
Is it the water going through the IP and injector that is the concern? The water would be under several thousand PSI, that would INCREASE its boiling point. I found a dubious answer that 3psi will raise the boiling point of water 1F (this is true).
I don't know if the rapid...
Ordering some more poly filters for the totes. Just want to give another 'attaboy' to Utah Biodiesel Supply. The guy is friendly, answers emails and has the best prices I can find for the filters :
DudaDiesel.com
7x32 1 micron poly bag: $6.70
Utah Biodiesel:
7x32 1 micron poly bag: $5.75...
I also am on the 'a little water won't kill you' side. I mean one way to clean the combustion chamber of an internal combustion engine is to pout water into it. High compression multi thousand HP v12 engines of WWII fame had was was caused 'WAR POWER' aka water injection to improve...
And that is the problem with government. Unless you signed a document like an EUC, and the sale was legal, your friend has delusions of government power.
Since most of the Soviet machinery is a direct rip off of our stuff I think that he may not realize that his Soviet truck may have had more in common with the US trucks than he cares to admit.
Anyone have any idea how much water is acceptable to run in diesel?
With condensation, unknown tank sources (are there really filters in the fuel lines? Anyone ever see one get changed?) etc a lot of water has to be getting through.
I read...
Properly sized blocks and extra lines can cost more than the 'next size up for a winch.
The math is fairly easy, as mentioned, you are moving up an inclined plane on roller bearings (aka wheels).
If you really feel up to it, you can push a deuce. Not far, and definitely not up an inclined plane.
Didn't know if the site was aware of it.
I did go through the topics of the first page or two.. but 'can't post a pic' etc didn't match with what I was having an issue with.
Your driveline does not run dual tires and connected dual axles and is specifically designed to accommodate the specs you listed. The OP mentioned a 5 ton. I was assuming a 818 or or some other tri axle dual wheel setup.
I cannot think or a more apples and oranges comparison in the universe...
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