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For $2500 there better be a good frame, the driveline better be correct and the tub should be all there (seats, gas tank etc) maybe not in pristine condition, but there (even if rusted). If you pay more than $5000-7000 for at least whats called a 'motorpool' jeep then you are getting ripped...

Go back to the seller and jam him up. If he sells more than a few vehicles a year most states call them dealers... and HEAVILY REGULATE THEM. Drive to his place, tell him that you will raise holy h*ll and rat him out to any government office that will listen to you from the dog catcher to the...

I read a few threads regarding hard brake pedal and little brake pedal movement. My truck stops fine, the brakes don't get hot (drag) and I can hear the air pack release (like at a stop sign.. engine is at idle, I let of the brakes and hear a 'fisshhhtttt' sound). I have also squirted oil into...

60MPH?!?!?! I think I get 50-55 going downhill. All you lucky dogs living in the flatlands have it easy... except for that flooding thing.

I was waiting to hear back about the shipping on this item since the auction was confusing. Guy has 2000+ sales and 100% feedback. M35 A2 2 1/2 ton Truck HUB SEAL KIT Duce and a Half - eBay (item 330415607092 end time Jul-12-11 11:11:13 PDT) Beats the prices of just about any place I can...

Was the agreement to actually title the truck or simply submit the paperwork? Why would you pay almost a grand to do something than can be done with a good notary? Or did you also believe what the local DMV droid told you? Call the guy back, and tell him you will charge back unless you either...

I found a place selling both oil seals, the cork and the paper gasket for $25. Is that a decent prince for a 'kit'?

It was a mix of liquid and 'goo' that was grease like. The passenger side is all oil. I have both wheels off (not that hard... lucky me) but I have about 1000 miles on the truck since I got it, and this is the only real issue I have had other than the boot (which was already ripped with I...

Today I was shooting grease in the zerks and got to the forward read axle. Both inner rims were covered in grease and oil. I took the vent off and removed the spring and seal (no fording in the near future) and started to search of leaking axle posts here. The drivers side wheel was...

That's what that is from??! I'm putting a hole in mine tomorrow.

The form is not the hard part... getting a 10 ft board hot/wet enough to bend and set is the problem. You need a lot of heat/steam along a lot of wood to bend it.

Did they round over the corners? It looks like a simple 1/4in radius.... if not rounded over they will splinter much more easier. I am getting top bows from jtonka on my way to Ft. Drum to pick up a trailers... the side stakes don't bother me... but a steam tube... no thanks.

PVC pipes are not really an issue if you add in a relief valve that will dump back into the pumped tank. But the cost of PVC really doesn't save you much over iron/brass fitting. Fit the relief valve after the motor and before the first filter. Gauges!!!! Before the first and after the last...

HF and Northern tools sell a 1 ton bed crane that you bolt to the floor. Only issue I can see with a DUCK is the thicker gunwales (or whatever they are called). Plus bolting to the metal floor might cause some watertight issues.

My boot was torn by what looked like the steering limit bolt. (which was welded in place... maybe after it backed out and ripped the boot???) The passenger side boot seems to have many miles on it... its in rough shape... but still intact. I did note that the drivers side zipper was pointed...

I'll have to find out about the valve for the rear air ports... I'm sure they are there, but I don't recall seeing them (I check the glad hands at every pre-start walk around.. lights to while I'm back there). I think hooking them up, but keep air off is the best of both worlds.

I have been going over my truck as I can.. brakes were high on the list... but I have zero 'sperience with the air system past the air pac and have no parts if anything breaks. For an empty trailer I don't think I will lose much braking performance if I just let it roll. For all the things...

Your killing me! No pics?

The TM I read shows a brake controller attached to the steering wheel, I don't have that... so I am thinking that the trailer would use just a surge type brake? I would rather not hook into my service air for anything.

I read a few M105a2 recovery threads and have a good idea what I need to do to get the trailer. I will be using me M35a2 to get the trailer, but I am unsure about the inter-vehicle cable. Is this attached to the trailer? Do I need to buy one? Pics show some black hose/cable looking things...