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The only difference between the M35 and CCKW corners is that the CCKW corners would have leather straps vs nylon.
I don't think they made the change till very late.. at least the 70s as my 66 M35a2 had a mix of M35A2 and M35A2C corners yet all had leather straps.
I was truly surprised to find...
I drove my deuce to Ft Drum to get a trailer I won. I figured I'd put my WMO to use and 'drive for free'. Well... almost. The first tank up was 100% WMO, but the stuff in the 55gallon drum I had in the bed was clogging up the screen in the filler on the diesel tank.. so I didn't use it...
There is no real odor to the oil, and visually everything dripping from the truck is all black.. front/rear/axles/bellhousing/filters etc etc etc
I have plenty of drips to choose from.
It about buying parts beforehand. A new rear seal is not a big issue if that is the problem, but a transmission input shaft/bearing is a much larger expense. I also can't have a dead truck laying around the garage for days while I guess at parts.
If a $5 can of dye gets me a 100% answer then...
Anyone use and have a source for some dye? I guess its UV? Does it work with minor leaks??
I have drips (and now a slipping clutch) from the bellhousing and want to dye the engine oil to confirm it.
Read a few threads about oil from the bellhousing and it mentions a tranny vent? Any pics...
For any shipping rate figure $1.50/mile per truck low end, $4-5 per mile per truck high end.
Call some brokers.. they generally have the scoop on backhauls.
What attitude? Any suggestion that GL-1 is the proper lube defies all logic. It has been eradicated from all deuces since the early 80's. There is no written Army documentation that says to use GL-1 for over 25 years.
Really? Its not like you solved PI or discovered the Higgs Boson.
Well, at least you can count.... my job here is done :D
I don't think an alignment would cause the wobble... your tires would show wear if it was an alignment issue. Cupping is the most visible clue.
Setting tow-in requires...
At this point I believe you have no idea WTH you are talking about.
Unless you are talking about the drag link and pitman arm as being separate... I guess they are technically, but I never replace/rebuild one without the other.... if the pitman arm ball is worn, the drag link also needs...
No, those are the correct parts. I am talking about the steering part. You *could* add the steering box, but unless its been run dry or defective its not a *WEAR* part.
The axle has rotating part, but we are talking about steering components.. and those are the only steering components on the...
I don't want to start another holy war but using GL-1 in your driveline is not the best idea.
First, GL-1 as an official specification does not exist anymore.
Second, GL-5 is everything GL-1 is plus more goodies.
Third, your truck has had GL-5 in it since the early 1980's with absolutely no...
The best tire advice I have:
All tires on an axle should be within 1/4inch diameter. Properly inflated (50PSI for hard surface roads) and must have a shraeder valve cap!!!!!
Tire balance is not an issue until you hit 50+MPH. Below that its not a concern.
My 42 jeep and 43 CCKW have repair...
The tools should all be American made... its a law (Home Depot just got busted for selling non-American tools under the GSA contract.
Ever manufacturing process can produce a dud.... I swear by my Craftsman tools others call them complete junk becuase they don't 'feel good' in their hands...
The gauges before the first filter will tell you if the first filter is clogged (and if so, the relief should open). The one at the end is to gauge drop across the filter media to gauge hoe clogged the media is. You *could* get away with one at the front, but its much more accurate to get a...
I submit that you did what the DMV/RMV told you rather than do what you needed.
1. You don't need a CDL. You need a Class A license.
2. If you get a CDL and tag it as an antique that makes NO SENSE. A CDL == COMMERCE, and an antique vehicle would never pass a DOT inspection.
3. Your...
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