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I have yet to find an antique insurance co that would allow much more than 'to from events', cargo, passengers. Hagerty REQUIRES a garaged vehicle, you CANNOT off road and you must own a daily use vehicles. Ditto for American Collectors. No antique policy is going to allow the same privileges...

Opps... I completely missed the M813 part... my bad. I pay *maybe* $20 more for commercial insurance than what any antique insurance was for a deuce. Most antique quotes were around $200. I pay $90 for my 42 GPW through American Collectors, and my 43 CCKW was $110. Many people have gotten...

Commercial Insurance does not put you into CDL territory. The insurance company could call it 'pink pony insurance' and the state won't care. Now if the truck meets the STATE requirements by weight or # of axles then you need a CDL to drive the truck. You make it sound like its the...

I will be picking up my M105a2 next week from Ft. Drum. I will be taking my Deuce so will have some room for other stuff. Let me know if I can bring anything back from Ft. Drum.. my route is 81 S after stopping by jtonka's for some stuff.

I got the seals yesterday and all were NOS still in GI packaging. Not a bad deal... $50 for all the seals for a rear axle. I could have lived without the little religious-freak booklet telling me I'm going to ****... but at least the parts were in good shape.

The zippered boot I got was in a sealed bag and had a slip of paper with the part number (it was like a 7 or 9 digit number). What are these 'aftermarket' boots coming in? I called an M35 parts place, asked for an M35 boot and it appears that I got a USGI part. Are these 'cheap Chinese' parts...

Its VERY COMMON to get 'commercial insurance' for a deuce... it means nothing... other than you have commercial insurance. You are not automatically obliged to get a CDL (unless your state requires it due to weight) and a DOT number etc. Having Hagerty means you can do almost NOTHING with...

The ole GAA.. sure its around.. but without shipping it or being next to a surplus center you ain't gonna find it on the shelf. Modern lubes are so much better and cheaper. Modern NLGI meets/exceeded every GAA spec. GAA Grease, automotive and artillery MIL-G-10924...

How can dry rot occur so quickly after install? The amount of handling to get the boot over the knuckle and secured with clamps is non-trivial... if the rot is there pre-install then it would rip during install. Dry rot would not happen so quickly after install... it takes a while to eat...

I think a lot of 'dry rot' is really installation error. Dry Rot does not cause a clean rip... but a ragged edge. Someone showed a pic of 'dry rot' that went vertically, across a 'pleat'. I'm thinking that was more of a cut from the install. Could be wrong... but the pic didn't show much...

They are called IBC totes (Intermediate Bulk Container) and the most common sizes are something like 225, 275 and 325. They are not really that common here is PA.. I can only find them erratically from private sellers for way to much ($150-$175). Out mid-west and down south the are all over...

I posted a while back that I found totes for $50 in upstate NY. Even then diesel or shipping puts them over $100. I was hoping to burn waste oil all the way up... but the return trip would have to be pump diesel.... 50 gallons... $200+ Your totes are no more cheaper than the $100 ones I can...

My $0.02..this is not a slam.. but a 'best case scenario'. 1. Get on every Chevy board you can and DOCUMENT THE TRUCK. If you have an original truck then there are people who would like to get pics of X,Y, and Z to help answer questions that TMs or for their own restoration. 2. 90% of the...

Post your source then. I don't see what you are trying to prove... I *KNOW* they are available cheaper ELSEWHERE (aka OUT OF STATE) but unless you are going to post a source of your $50 totes, that are less than readily availble (aka a steady supply). The ebay posts I made were as close as...

I can find $50 totes all day long... MO, KY, ON, NC but I don't want to invest the time and money to drive 1000+ miles to get them and no where will you find shipping for <$2-3/mile...

And don't be a sucker and spent $26 for <$10 worth of parts. I found this on ebay and spend $8 at Lowes to make it: Its a $1.75 for the MIT adapter, $1.50 for the 2in to 3/4in screw type bushing and the brass hose nipple is like $4. If you don't have PVC cement then add $4.50

Make sure you get one with NPT threads! I got some sort of metric threads on one and I doubt that I will spend the effort to find the correct conversion connector.... it will be the 'filtered' tank.... the other tote has 2in NPT threads and after a trip to Lowes I got a PVC adapter, bushing fro...

If anyone in NE PA or W NY or N NJ is looking for totes I found a place that has them.. washed with lids and valves. Dixon Sealers in Scranton PA has them for $99 each. I just got two and he had about 20-30 on site. He said he get them regularly. 1-800-233-4966 and ask for Steve

I read that thread and nothing lead me to believe that you SHOULD get rid of DOT 5. Contrary, the posts seemed to make the case FOR DOT 5. Other than human error DOT 5 is a better choice... the only problem occurs when the person filling the fluids has no clue and starts mixing fluids. As for...

Any grease rated for wheel bearings (GC-LB) will do fine. The grease really doesn't lubricate any parts.... more for corrosion control inside the knuckle). Pennzoil 707L is what I use... a 4 lb tub is like $8 at Napa and is more than enough to get grease to the proper level. Since the knuckle...