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The switch for the transmission works backwards compared to the brake light switch, they are in the same housing, the brake light switch has two individual wires and the brake/trans switch has a two pin molded plug.
So code 37 means the switch is open all the time whereas it should only be open...
I would add take several spare tires, you have no idea what condition or age they are.
You also must pull all the wheels and service the hubs and diffs. as they will be turning, as mentioned above not doing this can cost you allot of money and a failed trip, if one of those hubs fails and you...
I always replace the pan any time I change the fluid, I have learned over time it saves me work because most pans have been over tightened and distorted.
They are cheap enough, if you do get one with a drain plug because when you drain the pan you only change about 4-5 quarts when the total...
I don't think I have any pictures as it was 25 years ago but I stuck a 5 ton (M51, I'm talking 600 and something inches of it takes 5 gallons of gasoline just to get it started) bed on a M35A1, it had extended sides and tail gate, I hauled over 200 tons of Caliche 10-12 tons at a time about 13...
You've got it! The rear sensor came about for diag with the 6.2L which did not have a crank sensor so that continued until the center mount turbo made it impossible.
Now TOBASH, he has the right to find the answers he is looking for.
As for me I am absolutely and certifiably crazy and I would not haul a single HMMWV any distance. (I did haul my JD350 dozer 2 miles a few months ago on my 7500LB lowboy trailer behind the ol ladies F150 but that is different...
I am leaning towards just keeping the tire and getting another one when they become available again to replace the last one I damaged, I am concerned that Simple tire does not show any stock on these and I may not be able to get a replacement, the tire is running smooth so I may just put it as...
How many shims did you have in the rear top brackets and how many did you remove?
I was looking at a M1097R1 I have in the shop and it has three shims under each upper bracket, one shim under each bracket looks fairly easy to remove as they would drop down and two that would need to be brought...
Just make sure you have a good ground to the bolt going through the firewall and inspect the wiring behind the inst panel, I think you said you ran a #6 to that stud which is good..
ALSO the frame has no ground, the engine is isolated by its mounts and so is the body, this is why if the starter drops off its mounts (yes it happens) and the pos. terminal on the starter contacts the frame all that current goes through things that are providing unintentional grounds to the...
I would certainly pull the inst. panel and look to see if it was a short inside that caused the ground wire #3C to fry which is pretty likely unless you had/have a 400A alt in which case it could be the harness that passes behind the alt.
EDIT::: it would be more correct to call the ground...
The engine and drivetrain is grounded through a 1/0 ga cable to the battery box, the body harness ground is provided by wire #3A that is bolted to the engine block.
EDIT, the EESS is getting its ground through wire #57B which is part of the body harness.
What is labeled as a "body ground" is...
I am extremely sorry, I meant YJ arms not TJ arms, I do suffer from CRS. but that is no excuse.
I sincerely hope I did not cost you too much money :(
I have corrected the post.
Again I apologize to anyone that I caused grief....
Welcome to the SS forums, you will find allot of people here to help.
The first thing I would do is unplug the molded plug connected to the brake light switch, there are two circuits there, one is two individual wires and the other is two wires through a molded plug.
If that stops the issue...
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