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Do you by chance have a 60A alt? if so check your battery voltage when running

If shorting S and T gets the truck cranking then as 86humv said start tracing the 74A circuit until you find the problem, if shorting S and T does not work then you have a problem with the starter and or power to the starter.

You may want to trade/sell them, you cannot get those at AutoZone and I bet they are not cheap!!

Try S and T that plug has independent wires to the positive post on the starter (T) and to the solenoid (S) If that does not work check T to ground with a volt meter, if you do not have 24V there then the starter is likely not getting any power.

If you short S and T on the STE plug you will activate the starter IF it is working and has power. That does not mean it is going to start, you still need power to the IP. If everyone that owns a HMMWV had downloaded and READ the free TMs available on this site it would have saved many folks...

When you tested the turn signal indicator lamp did you use reverse polarity? the pos goes to the lamp body and the neg goes to the contact point.

I did find this in Niehoff docs about the N3135 "Allows single-voltage operation (28 V only). 14 V is not available as a single voltage appli- cation with this regulator. — Provides optional 28 V/14 V output only from the regulator when phase cable from alterna- tor is connected to regulator."

I think it is possible the N3135 would work in that application only without the 14V, it seems if someone had just stuck that regulator on the alt. there would not have been a cap provided to seal the unused connector, it is even chained to the connector, normally these just have plastic caps...

Looking at your picture the regulator has one of its plugs capped, I assume that alternator does not have that cable, that would be a good reference to know if somebody is fighting a 200A alt. problem! I wonder if the 3135 regulator would actually work on that alt but being only single voltage...

That crosses over to NSN 2920-01-420-9968 per the Niehoff's web site. I did also look at some of the other military only parts suppliers and it is listed as non-submersible. The correct regulator is a N3106 and it does not have a 14V tap :( Searching for the NSN and all the regular suspects are...

Interesting, I have never seen a "non dual voltage gen" with an external regulator on a HMMWV, there is a 100A that uses the same regulator and is dual voltage. The numbers you list do not come up in any search except for this thread.

OK but you need to confirm that 24V is getting to the light sockets on the correct terminals, you also need to confirm the ground lead to the light sockets as well, there has been allot of issues with the cheap LED headlights, some have to go through several sets to get some that work.

I am not sure what you mean I was talking about the neg lead of the meter when he is looking at the dimmer switch.

I never had an issue, it does reduce the rear departure angle a little bit but does not reduce the overall ground clearance of the vehicle. It is very well protected so if you did scrape it off road it would not likely be a problem.

Are you doing this with the engine not running, if so try it with the engine running and the alt charging. You may also have a grounding issue with the rear lights, pull the lens and see if the running light filament tries to glow/light when the turn signal is flashing

It should be clear, the pos terminal is larger than the neg terminal so the connectors should give you a clue but as far as practical application it does not matter

One of the yellow wires is for 12V transmission (TCM) feed the other goes to the 14V tap on the voltage regulator to balance the voltage on the two batteries 1 is neg, 4 is 24V positive. 3 is the cable that goes between the two batteries. What batteries are you going to use? There also should be...

Replacing all the frame mounts is a CONSIDERABLE amount of work with blood letting and money but that is certainly an option, I did a 2" lift for under $100, I used this guys pucks, https://www.mikellisbodylifts.com/ You will need to drop the fuel tank the same amount as your lift, I used a...

This is what that mount looks like in place.

Welcome to the SS forums. There is a winch mount made especially for the rear and many winches can be mounted in it. You can do an internet search for 5340-01-485-5962, here is the cheapest one I found with a quick search, the fairlead is right below the bumper...