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IMHO the entire reason to go to a spin on is to get rid of that OEM filter that is a PITA to work with, not to mention being a canister filter and should definitely not be the "final safety" filter in your system if you are going to run multiple filters. If you want to keep the OEM as the "final...

A volt/ohm meter, basic electrical trouble shooting and the schematic will get you the results you are looking for. Sorry I can't help you with the volt meter:D

Why would you want to keep the OEM filter? Yes, Chinese Buffet in Portland TX today, A couple hundred miles on the DuraVee today trying to pick up parts for the Bobcat 15C auger. The seals and the 1 1/4 cold rolled pin was no problem, finding a piece of 1 1/4 SCH80 pipe to repair the swivel...

Welcome to the SS forums!

You are going to have to lift the body and or modify the suspension if you are going to run 42s

Run out of fuel or change the filter no problemo, just run the pump for a few minuets and it will prime itself. Also no need for a filter before the pump as that gear pump will digest anything the fuel tank can send it

This is my medicine for the OEM lift pump and filter. A Raptor pump and a spin on filter, mounted in the right wheel well. I normally run 8-10PSI, the 3PSI the gauge is showing is the pressure it takes to open the return check valve in the IP, it would just sit there at 2-3PSI for weeks Any...

Just curious what draws 70A? my 120W Motorolas only pull about 25A on TX.

OMG!!!:eek: IMHO you are going to have to pull that tank, there is no way again IMHO you are going to get it anywhere near clean any other way. Black=bugs

I thought you already had the brakes put back together, of course you are going to have a brake light!!!

I installed a 6L90 in a HMMWV and it had stock TCM in it and a completely mechanical engine, I used a PCS external "controller" easy as pie, programming the TCM and the controller was no sweat. Seems running the 6.6 with the 6L90 would be no problem as is, a stand alone modified harness should...

I am SORRY,, I made a mistake, I did not realize this thread was started by a different user, I have unlocked it:eek:

I always start with a Basic or A1 truck as with the 4.97:1 final ratio on those trucks is more desirable than the 5.24:1 the 2:73 gears give IMHO On my Dmax install, with the 2.56 gears I am only turning about 200 RPM faster at 75MPH than I am on my 2008 3500HD tow vehicle. The 5.24 gears should...

Did you remove the rod and grease it or try to stick some grease on it without removing the rod? I have never had any issue when removing the rod and greasing it including the rod end where it contacts the cam.

The brake light is likely the brake proportioning valve, you can check this by unplugging the wire from the valve.

Sounds like you got the wrong pump.

I think sign wave is for DC/AC inverters only

You do not need the coolers, diff or transfer case unless you plan on going under extremely heavy load in low range in something like sand for a long period of time. Yes just about any 4WD 4l80 should bolt up, I was not aware of any cooler line differences, if your original trans is good, I...

This was an up-armored truck so it sits much higher without the armor so it depends on the truck, an old M998 with 35 year old springs and sagging body mounts will not likely have the clearance for the 39s

The shell around the radiator is steel not copper