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Back of Freq switch - Yes R16 is a Resistor, not a Diode.

You need to get the newer -10 TM dated 15 October 2009 The table is updated and reads...

Rich, I just texted LITD. He should be responding when he can. Kurt

I bought the set of hoses from LITD to have as spares. The two ends on the spare lower hose 88-20190 I have here are both 1 1/4"

That part that you circled is for the over temp shutdown. It does NOT drive the temperature gauge. The one that does drive the temp gauge is find number 8 below. Fn 8 & 9 FN 9 Also PN 8037122 FN 9 FN 8 part numbers..

It was about a year ago but the listing indicated may have indicated it was for an 831 or it listed the 831 starter number. I don't recall specifically.

Search for 240-14201 I bought a pair of them about a year ago. Already used 1 in one of my 831s. Works great. My spare...

There are a few new ones on ebay for $75 to $100

Correct, the diodes operate like check valves by only allowing current to flow in one direction thru them. For instance CR1 is there to protect the DC portion if the genset from being damaged should the batteries get hooked up backwards. Some of the other diodes are there to supress current...

Yes, the K1 contactor coil is 24 VDC.

Is the VR card fairly easy to replace? Maybe a replacement card could be designed and made available if it's a fairly easy replacement.

I haven't dabbled with that conversion yet. Jamawieb could probably shine some light on that thought.

TB = Terminal Block

No need to pull the exhaust. Just unhook the wires going to it. Then remove the two bolts securing the starter to the engine and remove the starter. There is also relay K2 involved with the starter operation.

Basically the operation is the Magnetic Pickup (MPU) sensor on the bell housing detects the engine RPM. The Electronic Governor Controller (A5) measures output signal from the MPU to determine the actual engine RPM. The Electronic Governor Controller then adjusts the signal it sends to the...

To switch systems you have to relpace the regulator, T1 transformer, front panel voltage adjuster and resistor R16 on the back of the freq select switch.

Might want to check the frequency with an external device such as a DMM that can measure frequency or a Kill-a-Watt meter. That way you'll know if it's engine RPM or a bad transducer.

FU2 would be a 3 amp fuse. KTK-3 I believe. Replace the 20 amp one with a 3 amp or risk burning out the static exciter. If FU2 blew it may be a sign your AC Voltage Regulator is failing. Normally FU2 should not blow unless there is an issue.

Contact Light In The Dark for the hoses.

Don't start the set until you install the Fuse Mod. Once installed fire it up after needed prep is done and see if it produces power. If not check the Fuse mod Fuse. If good and no ACoutput then perform the AC Voltage Regulator tests and report back with results.