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https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/instrument-cluster-cleanup.52821/

https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/cucv-m1009-electrical-issues.211271/ Your batteries are not charging. You need to check the the Gen lights and replace all the lights in the dash that are not working. Make sure you are running a stock 12-24 volt system. Without the Gen lights you will not...

I would pull your drums off, clean everything up on your braking components, check the proper fit of your brake shoes, and adjust the brake shoes the proper distance from your drums when re installing. It could be your shoes were not adjusting properly as they wear. For your safety and the...

I'm thinking you could have had injector problems. You might have cleaned them out with the long drive and the right products cleaning things up.

Have you adjusted the VCV valve on your Injection pump. Two nuts holding the valve to the Injection pump. Loosen the nut and move the valve either forward towards the firewall for lower shifts and towards the radiator for higher shifts. If you can find cold advance switch for $100 I would buy...

Here is one from Amazon.https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C7QIKW/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_4?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

It looks like your alternator and or your crank pulley is wobbling to me.

You know already by now, if all you're getting is clicking, the first thing you need to do is eliminate the batteries as the problem, and if they test good then you look elsewhere. If the batteries are low, then it sounds like you're back to square one. My guess is, since you have already...

https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/cucv-electrical-ground-locations.120289/

Bummer, second time around you will be a pro. Sorry for your troubles. When it is all said and done you will have positive results. Something good always comes from our trials. Hang in there. What company did you use for the I.P. if you don't mind me asking?

You are absolutely right about shoddy workmanship. No one will take more effort and pride in their vehicle then you will. I see you steeped up to some quality connectors. That is where a lot of shorts are in wiring when a connector looks good but you can't be sure how well the connection is. If...

You might have a bad connector where you hook into the fast idle solenoid. Check the wiring over and I would cut off the spade connector and replace it with a new one. You might try some Diesel Mechanic in a Bottle as Keith_J has explained and let it soak overnight inside your IP

Did you see the post about 12 posts down, " Sounds like a misfire please help"? He is having similar issues as you are. There is good information that could help you. The fast idle solenoid plunger can be cleaned up if it is sticking or a replacement is easy to change out for about 100.00 dollars.

Good Information, thank you. You're doing great work!!

I am ready to change out my vent window seals. If you would, I would appreciate which ones and where you got yours. Thanks

Your already well past the timing mark. With a new pump you should be able to line up the marks. Start there and see what you get. You can advance the timing more than is necessary, but the engine will run louder and result in higher RPM's. No need to try and push more power out then necessary...

It does not sound like timing to me. If your timing mark is close to both timing marks lining up it should start and idle fairly well. I just set the marks on top of each other and test drive. You should end up with the timing marks some what close together. There is a tool you can make to set...

''How Much'', LOL. He has them and you need them. Don't worry, CUCVRUS is an honest fair man always willing to help out!!