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I see you're a Will Prowse person. His videos are good. Have watched them for a few years now.

The load terminals in the 831 are smaller versions of the ones used in 5KW and up units.

Check to see if you have 120 volts AC across the transducers input terminals when the set is running. If you have 120 volts there then you'll need to check to see that both wires from the transducer to the meter have continuity.

I've picked a few up from ebay for a reasonable price.

Will be using 2/0 per the manual. Already have the wire, lugs & crimper on hand. For the 4024 the manual indicates 4/0 wire.

Here is the link to the YouTube video

CallmeColt posted a YouTube video on this. I'll post the link when I get on a real PC. I bought the sender. Just haven't installed it yet.

I invested in the altE HLX3600 batteries in mid 2020. The altE headquarters is 30 minutes from home so getting items from there is easy, no shipping. Battle Borns have a good reputation. There are many server rack LIFEPO4 batteries now available that are more cost effective. More competition...

The other plus of 48 V is the gauge of the DC cables can be smaller since the current at 48 V will be half of that at 24 V.

I've got a 300 AH 48V LIFEPO4 battery bank (four 12V 300 AH in series) and small array of ~1.7K feeding it. I used the Magnum as an inverter for a few months this summer in a temporary hookup to check it out and it worked great. No really heavy loads on it at that time. Plan is to re-do the...

Just curious, which model are you considering? I have a MS4448PAE but have only used it in inverting mode. Haven't hooked any AC input up to it yet.

If the alternators regulator is failing the Charge meter should dance about during the flickering. Likely in the Negative range when the lamps are dim and in the Positive range when they brighten up. Too bad the charge meter wasn't in the video.

From the audio it sounded like he was toggling the panel lights on and off then.

Interesting.. The first thing I'd suspect is diode CR1. I've diagnosed a few sets where CR1 is failing causing 24 v problems. Inspect it and see if it looks cooked or cracked. Pull on it and see if it breaks in half. If that's the problem I'd suggest replacing it with two of the CR1's in...

Correct With a heavy duty toggle switch you can have the ability to switch from 120 to 120/240. I did that for one customers 831 that I did the head swap on. Wiring the switch was a bear.

It maintains output frequency +/- 0.2 Hz Restores operation of the AC Voltmeter. Restores operation of the Load meter. Displays the kW load on the gen head leg with the greatest load. Restores operation of the Contactor, Contactor OPEN/CLOSE switch and the Contactor Lamp. Restores Overload and...

Good news on two items! 1) Due to popular demand it looks like I'll be offering more of the Governor Controller kits to support swapping out the PMA/Inverter with a conventional gen head. 2) Also there is a proven solution to restoring the functionality of the MEP-831's factory Battery Charger...

88-20492 6680-01-392-8821

Another one that should fit the 9 mm hole and snap in. Lens ---> Lens

Reach out to member Light in the Dark He refurbs them, does updates, load tests and ships them all over the place.