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You have no idea how hard it was to leave the manual there :-). The manual and the NIB BII in the back would have fit very nicely in the M1083A1 I brought for the event.
For the CTIS: Yes, I noticed that. Scary thing is this truck was just delivered and hasn't been used so it had to come from Oshkosh that way.
Rear axle: Didn't get a picture, but it was the same as the mid on a 5-ton. Tried to check the gear ratio, but the stamping was so light I couldn't read...
We had a military vehicle show at the Oregon National Guard on Saturday to celebrate Armed Forces day and they brought out their brand new M1078A1P2. This thing has less than 100 miles, the center seat still has the plastic, the delivery cards are still in the windshield, the BII is still in the...
Few options on the handles:
1) NIB handles show up on ebay for around $299 each
2) People are parting out trucks and you can sometimes get the handles from them. Post on the WTB board.
3) If it is just the trip that broke (the part that usually breaks), I did a run of them in bronze with the...
Do you just need the handles or do you need the op rods, latches, etc? Do you know what generation of handle you have? Since it is an A1, I assume it is either the Gen 2 pull-down handles or the gen 3 pull-forward handles.
Common failure. I had a bunch cast out of bronze with reinforcement in the area that breaks. I will get some pictures and post on the sale board tomorrow.
I have a 2004 M1088A1 that I am in the process of converting to a M1083A1. I am in Portland, OR and you are welcome to come down and get measurements, test drive, etc. This is my 3rd FMTV and I am happy to answer any questions you might have.
Does anyone have the part # for the winch in/out rocker switch. I know it is a Valeo 511 switch but it is missing from my truck so I can't pull it and check the number. I am currently traveling and don't have the TM's with me.
I keep a torque multiplier like https://www.amazon.com/XtremepowerUS-Torque-Multiplier-Saving-Wrench/dp/B00MI0DOW6/ref=sr_1_1 in the truck in case I need to change a tire on the side of the road. I use a 1" impact with shop air when I am at home.
I use the rear emergency gladhand for spare air when I am on the road or far enough from my shop that I don't want to haul a hose. I have a 20-ton air jack in the toolbox for changing tires, tire inflator if CTIS goes out, air nozzle to blow stuff off, etc. Eventually I am going to add another...
For the why bronze question, it is a matter of cost. It is strong enough for this application and significantly cheaper than a machined part. I had my drivers side trip machined out of 4140 and I can have the molds built and ~10 trips cast for what that cost. The mold tree does 20 trips (10 of...
Is there any interest in replacement door handle trips made from cast bronze with the thin area reinforced? These would work with either the pull-up or pull-down handles and would be a direct replacement for the cheap cast aluminum trips that always break. Likely cost would be $75 each but that...
Thank you all for the advice. Caged brakes + BFH + getting the truck off of gravel and down to the road and driving forward and back ~10 times finally broke the wheel free.
Both cans are cages, pads have been whacked. Anything else it is likely to be? If not, I will take it down to the asphalt and drive back and forth a bit and see if it will break free.
Yes, both forward and reverse ~150- ft. on gravel. If it is just the pad rusted to the drum I can take it out on pavement and see if that breaks it free. Didn't know if there was something else going on and don't want to break something if I don't have to.
My 1083a1 has been parked for a few months. Went to move it today and the middle right (passenger) wheel is locked. The other 5 turn but mid right drags without turning. Caged the brake on that side and still no luck. Has anyone experienced this before? Any idea what to check?