Search results

They are the same in terms of fitment of the glass. However the old ones use screws to hold the retainers in, and the new ones have threaded inserts that accept bolts. And the hole locations are different. Can you post a picture of yours?

Make sure you get the windshield retainers for ECV/REV trucks, not the earlier ones.

I would get your leak fixed and then install a new OEM thermostat and see how it does.

Its actually installed on a tee on the output of the cadillac valve, so if you really wanted one for some reason you could retrofit it. But its a specialty tee since the top port is milled to be a seat for the bleeder (not standard NPT threads). A possible reason they installed it is simply...

Its literally a brake bleeder valve, I actually replaced mine with a generic one from the parts store. I suppose you could hook something up to meausure it?

Water pump?

Well theres your problem. That latch is still closed. Some lube and elbow grease and you should be able to pop it open.

Yeah I know they arent connected by any sort of linkage, but if the door is propped open by any substantial angle it might be tougher to open. Are the gas shocks still installed?

What is the status of the lower latches? Might wanna make sure those are latched while unlatching the top ones. Full disclosure, I'm not sure the proper sequence of unlatching if you are planning to fully remove the hatch. In normal use you only unlatch the top or the bottom, not both.

Spray the crap out of the latches with wd40

There is a knob in the center of the latch that you have to rotate to unlock it. Also, be extremely careful and have someone help you. My humvee almost killed me when I was messing with the rear hatch and it collapsed on my head.

I was thinking this too, but he said he had coolant boiling out of his overflow cap, so...

You'll get mixed opinions on this. But I think running without a thermostat for a short period of time for troubleshooting purposes is fine. Heck, I ran a beater vehicle for almost a year with no thermostat and straight water 😆

Try to narrow it down to coolant flow or air flow. Thermostat stuck closed or partially closed? Radiator clogged internally? Or dirty externally, inhibiting airflow? Just spitballing.

Interesting. Do you know anything about the Interlog Corporation TDM's? I have one with a Jan 2022 date, sourced from Mac Motors. Edit: nevermind, were not talking about the same part

Part of my problem is that I'm still waiting on the stupid SF97, so I cant drive the damn thing on the road. So I'm diagnosing all this stuff in my driveway. I'm sure if I was driving it around I'd realize that everything is okay.

I've seen them on other trucks. I have not installed them on my previously armored m1151, and so far no issues.

Thanks, thats helpful. The newspaper test is a common way to diagnose fan clutches on civilian vehicles, but obviously the hmmwv is a different beast. So at the end of the day, I spent about 5 hours and $100 worth of parts diagnosing a problem that didn't exist, lol. But hey, I have come out...

Update: Let me start by saying how I am determining whether the fan is on. With the truck running, I'm trying to stop the blades with a rolled up magazine. This will become relavent in a minute. My cadillac valve is putting out 160PSI. The fan clutch disengages with around 120PSI of air...

Power steering works fine. I think mgFray is refering to the bleeder valve (only some trucks have this). You can open it and observe fluid flowing out when the cadillac valve is open.