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IMO... It would make more sense to keep on top of your rigs batteries... than spending that kind of money to tote around another piece of gear.
Don't forget the batteries hide under the seat, lol. So take a peek from time to time. Get that Amp meter out and check for parasitic drain...
Always good to have a meter and use it. Glow plugs and injectors are pretty much straight forward, in and out. Going to be some comments on injectors reuse of copper crush washers and return lines. Return lines are a bitchy PITA to deal with. Those simple little clamps and the hose are a...
Good time to replace the return lines too. Once all this monkey motion is out of the way...should be good to go for a long time. Hose, clamps or the no clamp magic hose ??, anti seize and a few Bud's.
Keep an eye on the volt meter. Look for proper cycling sequence. Box not working and...
You probably have this > https://www.fivestarmanufacturing.com/pdf/kats_2020_catalog_complete_web-(1).pdf
Lot's of use info and phone numbers. Warranty info too.
Could be a hot deal, CAMO
This is how I do it. No fancy tool... just a good pair of Vise Grips. 3/8 socket gets it loose. If swollen a squirt of oil in the hole. Vise Grip locked on the glow plug head, tight not crushing. Pulling hard with a controlled feel and rotate 1/8 turn clockwise, then counter clockwise. Repeat...
Around October these start problems... well not start...start showing up.
Good time to get at the ghosts 👻 and goblins 👺 with a good weatherization and PMCS.
Never had a problem starting my HumV. 121 degrees or 6 degrees.
Glow and GO, CAMO 👀
Might be some info in this thread title, back a couple of days> Find and read to the end.
Fuel pump part number
With rod fully depressed up in bore on flat of cam... just a little pre-load to be felt. Has in slight to too none. Good point on the pump by ACTION. Pump arm fully extended and Its...
:unsure: :)
I admit the HumV grounding is a bit different. If one looks closely schematic basic M998... HumV doesn't use the body / frame as ground return except for the transmission shifter LED. All critical electrical grounds are return wires. This sometimes makes conventional wisdom...
I would say at 5 to 8 would be safe. Remember this is for some LED's lights.
Any more go with a slave relay to supply the switched power.
Better safe than shorted, CAMO
Fact or fiction on the conductivity of the assembled Humv's body panels ??? I haven't seen any proof. My discussion points. :):unsure:
Aircraft skins (metal ones) and for the most part all parts are assembled with sealant. A corrosion preventive first and sticky stuff second. Then lots and...
“model and trim package” That's funny :funny:
At some point I would say they're all convertibles, most with the top down and sitting for a long time. What might seem like a low asking price (auction) can go crazy $$$ quick.
Then once one gets familiar with bumper to bumper warranty...
I messed up on your light needing to be shut off with RUN switch. Skip that post # 4 My BAD again. LOL
Connect to wire number 567 going to the voltmeter. This should handle any LED cabin lighting and the USB power. See picture and location in red, stolen from 86humv. (y)
Ground of each...
Yes... could to that too. Would have to tap at "F" of the CAB connector of "BOX" or same wire "F" at the lighting switch. Not Packard friendly. Really...This is a better point for a lighting take off point.
Choice is yours, CAMO
Do to the low current drain of a couple of LEDs, I don't see a problem feeding them off the "RUN" position of the "stop-run-start" switch. Build up Packard connectors to "Y splice" into the switch. Follow best practice of wire routing, connections, insulation, protection and rated fuse close...