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Are you swapping the entire axle?

Engine computer is mounted on the drivers side of the block.

That truck will have a 3126 with the pcb power panel. You can plug in and run diagnostics with a standard hd code reader. With the dash power switch on see if there is power to the engine computer. Sometimes there is a noise filter box in the engine bay you can measure power in and out of the...

The relay should not get noticeably hot. The underside of the power panel cover may have a diagram of relays and breakers. The trans goes from neutral into 2nd. 1st is low range.

If you dont have correct output voltage the hvac wont work. You can damage it by trying to run it. Use a multimeter to see what your output it. The regulator is mounted on top of the stator head.

If the polarity box is bad you need to replace it. Its involved with charging regulation on that truck. Bypassing it is only a temporary fix. If you want to leave it bypassed and just make the system charge you can run a temporary 24v to the alt regulator 24v terminal and disconnect the ac lead.

The codes can be cleared from the keypad once the issue is fixed.

I think it all comes down to a low voltage/power issue. Replace the bad lbcd and you need to check all connections again. Batts, panel alternator.

The trans can still come up in neutral and have a stored code from a previous incident. If the truck was stuck in a gear Ans speed went up or down out of that gears range, and it didn’t shift then a code as to why should have been stored. The wtec5 module is under the passenger dash. The...

They have wtec5 probably. Unhappy trans can inhibit crank. Bad lbcd can cause improper batter charging. Trans issue will usually have a code on the keypad. If you have power to all electronics with dash switch you can jump the starter. But it may start in gear so be careful.

Unplug the connector from it and leave it unplugged.

Is the polarity box still bypassed? Both voltages? You can try unplugging the military connector from it. See if you can pull up any codes from the trans keypad. If you have power to the engine electronics you can try to crank from the engine bay switches.

I have never seen an exhaust extension. And the deepest I have gone thru is about 2 feet of flooded road. But I don’t think the dash and trans control is sealed well enough to be submerged. Especially wtec2. If you had to do it in an emergency it might get you thru but damage will be done. Where...

The bracket on the cab looks a bit mis aligned.

Check the big relays under the power panel.

Maybe its something stupid like your dash power switch went bad. Seen that before. Alot of the switches are the same the legend just pops out. You can try swapping switches.

Its an electronic engine and will not start if no power to engine computer. Pull up the power panel there are 2 relays under there make sure all connections are tight. In the engine bay sometimes there is a filter that the engine computer power goes thru. Have seen that fail and trip a breaker...

The lbcd is basically a diode array that prevents cab electronics damage if someone connected the batteries reverse by accident. It also aids in battery charge regulation. They do go bad and will cause an improper charging situation. Let me know if the master relay is energizing with the power...

If the alternator wasnt charging the batts properly. Which can happen with a bad lbcd. They could just need a good charge.

Check the ground at the starter and all the batt connections. It sounds like the master relay isnt powering on. Its in a box to the right of the battery box. There is also a manual cutoff switch that can be accessed under the box.