Search results

Here is a picture of the MWO "Fuse Mod" Guyfang is referring to...

Here is a diagram of which wires should be on S1 with their wire numbers and the destination of the wires in ( )

There should not be any wires on S1-6. Here is my S1. Ignore the two bright red wire lugs on my S1. They are not in a normal 831.

Now that I look closer the "MOSFET" is actually a diode since it's labelled D1. So you ought to replace D1 & D2.

The diode is definitely toast. If it were me I'd replace both the MOSFET and the Diode. The traces to J1 look a bit crispy too. Might want to see which traces that are crispy go to which pins on J1. Then determine where to pin on J1 go to to see if the is any damage along that path.

In this case basically a power transistor

My source is out of the S14's. However.... I will be producing them in a couple of weeks.

The big auction site has a 5930-01-023-4343 and some 5930-01-246-9266

Sent you a message ;)

I just PM'd you his contact info

There is someone on this forum that has some aftermarket ones he'd like to sell. I'll PM you his contact info.

For those interested here is what the inside of the CT looks like. Based on what I see the wires from the individual CT's to the terminals could vibrate and fracture due to wire vibration of the CT itself vibrating.

Was it the black device with 8 leads that cracked or was it the black device with 3 leads that cracked?

Are you sure it's burned out? The brown you see inside is probably just the conformal coating on the board and wires. One supplier that people have been able to buy them from is Quantum Controls. People in the past have been able to buy them for $75 from them. Here is the contact info for the...

24 volt DC power for most of the 24 volt circuits in the set all flow they CR1. If CR1 goes bad you lose all 24 volt power to the panel, relays, start switch and much more. Failure of CR1 is kind of common. I suspect it's a bit under sized for everything it has to power. Just had a customers...

Looking at the TM I *think* doing the following will allow you to get the set started temporarily without an S1 switch. ** Do this at your own risk ** ** Warning ** doing this will bypass the Fault Monitor and the set will NOT shut down due to ANY fault such as... Low/No Oil Pressure, Overload...

The main switch is a MS27407-2 Found them in stock at Master Electronics for $32.25 Master Switch S1 Other distributors list them too The switch isn't your average toggle switch. The contacts open and close in a unique way needed to clear the sets Fault logic until the set is started.

Ooooohh... God luck finding a good one. They're like hens teeth. One option if you don't find and inverter in to yank the PMA & Inverter and put in a conventional generator head. I just finished up doing that swap for a fellow S.S. member on his 831. I also installed one of my new custom...

Governor Controller

See my signature line for link to much less expensive Governor controller modules for the 831