Search results

Once it's running, does it stay running good?

I'm not sure if you affected me Drunkle or not, but I just picked up a M1010 today. LOL See this is a very infectious disease that spreads rapidly!

At least now you know some things to look for when you go back.

Here is a great link with information showing the different AN/VRC-12 radio setups used by the military. I would believe most of the CUCVs would have used the RT-524 radio, they also could have the auxiliary radios added to them. http://radionerds.com/index.php/AN~VRC-12

I've got two Optima Red Tops in mine. They seem to maintain the most juice with it sitting over long periods. Just my 2cents

Also I went ahead and got the Go Lights wired in and the switches mounted. I wanted the passenger side light to be controlled by either the driver or the passenger, so I mounted it in the dash since the plastic trim was already broke off. This week I'm planning on using the cable I got from...

Well got the new points in today. Tested the coil first and it was good, so I put in the new points and condenser. After gapping the points and testing to make sure they were working, I hooked it all back up and got spark. Then with a lil starter fluid she came came to life, oil pressure...

Welcome from Tennesee

Congrats on the purchase. Do you feel the disease pumping through your veins yet?? LOL

Caiman Plus MRAPS, but the standoff armor was removed. Hmm "Sure you can have the MRAPs, but we are going to take these parts off" lol

After some more testing, I do believe my current issue is the points. I tried cleaning them and re-gapping them but I'm not getting a ground signal through them when they are closed. Also started looking at some options for converting it to an electronic ignition, just thoughts right now...

Okay, maybe my theory of operation was wrong on these. When the motor is cranking, the relay closes and it provides the 12 volts to the coil. I'm still not getting any spark, but I'm thinking that is the points. With the points closed I'm not getting any ground through them. I get ground on...

Opened the box up. Anyone know what the piece is in the first picture with the red, blue, black, and green wires? I'm not an electrical expert by any means, but I somewhat know my way around a test light and multimeter. The green wire is the one that runs to the connection that is suppose to...

Well it looks like the issue is in overspeed relay box. I took the relay out and tested it off a battery and it does click on and off. After testing the silver box, I've got ground to the terminal with the solder sticking out of it (didn't have a better "pointer" lol). But I'm not getting any...

Well the weather is nice now, so the M1028 is back in the shop. Got the new terminal block installed. It becomes a pain crawling around in the box trying to cut wires and solder on connections, then again I don't think they designed it to be crawled in and out of by someone 6'4". lol For the...

Correct terminology would be the "Front Drive Shaft U-Joint at the Front Axle". I believe the 280 would work, I have Moog 369 on my list, but haven't confirmed the number yet. Appears the only difference in the two is .001" in length. To make sure, take the driveshaft with you to the parts store.

If your not getting any fuel to the filter, then it sounds like your pump is bad or screen clogged at the tank. Run a piece of hose from a 5 gallon can to the input on the pump and see if it draws fuel.

Meant is it pumping fuel through the fuel pump.

Is the pumping fuel up?

Go through the bleeding procedure again, if nothing, then I'd check to make sure your getting fuel to the filter. Could be the pump or pickup tube.