Search results

I'm gonna guess he's from Carmel Indiana. Lol 🤣 I don't have an answer, but welcome!

If your voltage is in the yellow and your tach doesnt work, maybe the issues are related. Both seem to indicate an alternator output issue. I would start troubleshooting the alternator.

When the tach wasnt working on my M1151, it turned out to be 2 wires that go to the AC output of the regulator on the alternator that were not plugged in.

After googling this, it seems like diesel engines generally dont warm up just sitting at idle. Apparently they really need a load to generate enough heat. Trouble is my truck is not street legal yet. I have access to a pretty large parking lot though, I will see if I can drive it in circles for...

I used a catch pan, and then poured the old stuff into the empty containers from the new stuff. Then added to the pile of old fluids I have stored. Unfortunately I havent found a local place that accepts coolant yet so I have tons of it. Used motor oil is way easier to dispose.

Well let's just call it a semi fluid change, still had the original coolant in it from when the marines had it. Now it has 2.5 gallons of new stuff. I'll do a full flush later.

I changed my temperature sensor (only to find that it didnt fix my problem), inspected both front spindle nuts and changed the hub oil, changed the front diff oil, and installed the upgraded washer nozzles (only to find that my washer pump is bad). So I guess a good and bad day. In case anyone...

I do have the numbers from one of CAMO's posts, but my temp simply hasnt gotten high enough to verify against those numbers. I didnt feel the thermostat housing directly but I felt the upper radiator hose which did seem to get pretty hot.

Well I thought I had a temperature sender problem, but now I think I have a thermostat problem. Symptom: temp gauge never moves Troubleshooting steps: 1. Connected sender input on gauge to ground. Needle goes full scale, indicating that the gauge is likely not bad. 2. Measured sender ohms to...

It one of the three wires that plugs into the back of the start lever. You can also put a hidden switch in line with 11a.

Unplugging wire 11A helps too.

The GVWR of my M1151a1 is 15,500 lbs 😮

:ROFLMAO:

I agree completely, plus the cable will allow you to partially open the valve if you want to control the temperature. I plan to do this mod once I'm done with the more important mechanical things on my truck. I believe it should be a pretty easy drop-in using the parts from an m998.

I just posted about this a few days ago. A 3/4" pex ball valve from home depot will drop right in and get you by. It will also help diagnose whether the valve is the issue or something else: https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/m1151-front-ac-not-working-10-fix.211008/ The only thing that...

I could not sleep at night until that's fixed....

My EUC came back in exactly 2 weeks. My SF97 on the other hand was submitted about 30 days ago and still waiting.

Everyone wants a 4 speed transmission to go faster, but my m1151 with a 4 speed still has a sticker that says top speed is 55mph. Apparently the 4th speed is just there to keep your RPM's lower (or I suppose you might exceed 55mph if people are shooting at you.) My plan is to inspect all the...

Okay thats badass...you gonna do armored doors?

Wait, really? I have an ECV unit 258,XXX serial number, does that mean I have ABS? How can I verify?