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Nice day in AZ.

Detroit locker up front.

Mine has Detroit both ends, wouldn't have it any other way.

I have seen the run flats go for as cheap as free to as high as $50 each. Most guys throw them away because they start working when you get down to about 15 psi, that is, the tire is held up structurally by the runflat inside and starts chewing up the tire from inside out. Thats why I had mine...

Oh, mine are magnesium, four 9/16 inch bolts hold them together. Cut the diameter down with a bandsaw so can air down to 5 psi and retain the beadlock feature. The machinist did that for free because he likes to play with magnesium chips in the fire. Worked for me.

I got a couple front fenders from a M35A2, cutting them lengthwise to make "military fender flares" for the Blazer. Looks like they will fit OK, i just don't want the plastic aftermarket ones.

Got the bus bars and cable bundle from a "radio Blazer" so I can put the batteries behind the passenger seat. In a steel box, of course, Optimas, vented to outside. Mounted the high lift jack under the front seats. Unlike the jeep guys, the Blazer is wide enough to put it there. I'm on this kick...

Make sure tire is completely deflated, remove the 8 bolts of the outer wheel ring, remove the wheel ring, but leave the wheel on the vehicle, remove the 4 bolts that holds the runflat together, take the run flat halves out, pull the tire straight off, reverse assembly with the spare tire...

Removed the batteries from the inner fender, I don't like them there, gonna put them somewhere else. Not sure where that somewhere else is tho.....

M1009: Mine lays horizontal on the floor behind the back seat. Its just the tire, no wheel. Inside the tire I keep the tow strap, jumper cables, tiedown straps, air hose, all that kind stuff that get stored in a coil. A round igloo-type ice chest goes in the hole in the middle. After making sure...

I rather like the 4.56 in the Blazer. I hated the 36" bias plys until I took the truck on a technical 4 of 5 trail. Those bias ply sidewalls are pretty tough.

Have to use the 2wd steering box. It bolts up the same, the pitman arm motion is left/right instead of front/back. Some of the guys here with skills disassemble the 4wd box and put 2wd innards to accomplish the same.

Its just another 30 year old truck with some parts missing. I have one, its not a big deal.

What I learned from Sutherland Trail : I absolutely need a locker up front, I would not go with LESS lift, I would not go with a taller gear, 4.56 is just right, I would not go with smaller than 36 inch tires, I would pack a better lunch, those grocery store breakfast burritos are terrible.

Yes, Squaretaper, report back please on the tire performance. I have read the physics of skinny tire theory, but what I see working on the trail has me unconvinced.

After a couple of months being angry at the Blazer, I got it out of the garage and fixed it. You see, when I installed the new kingpin bushing springs (dana 60), I left out the preload washers that aren't really supposed to be in there anyway. The resulting death wobble made the truck...

From a local shop : ".....thing I would do is look at the caster angle of the steering knuckle, 5-7 degrees is what you want...But you need to look at pinion angle also, if you put degree shims in, you mess with pinion angle. There is an adjustable lower eccentric available for the 60. Third...

Opening up the kingpin covers again to install the new springs PLUS the old washers. Its just a machine, it can't win...........

Parked it in the garage, closed the door, gave it "project" status while I think of what to do next. Installed the new Dana 60 kingpin springs & whatever those plastic cup pieces are called in an attempt to cure death wobble. Now its much much worse, its undriveable. Its 100 degrees out, I...

okeydokey.