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Just sayin'

Something to keep in mind if you run a solargizer in your truck to keep your batteries up is that breaking the negative side of the battery will also disable the solargizer if you have the black wire tied to the vehicles frame. The way to get around this is to wire both the red and black leads...

Since the HMMWV forum is known for it's strick adherance to factory configurations :roll: I used 1/4-20 hex head bolts to mount the seat base and the backing plates. I know there are many ways to accomplish something and bickering over plates or no plates, Rivets or screws isn't all that...

When I installed mine the kits weren't available so I made my reinforcing brackets from 1" bar stock aluminum 3/32 thick.

To answer your question I would use 8 AWG wire at the minimum to the fuse block and 4 gauge if you plan on installing anything that draws more then 20 amps. BTW, that depth sounder fuse could be used for an oil level sensor!

Make sure the #54 connector is firmly seated in the top of the IP. If it's intermittant it will shut off the fuel feed. You can connect a test lead there and run it to a meter that you can read while driving to see if your losing your 24v feed to the IP while your driving. You don't happen to...

Thank God he's not going to blend in very well even with all the Guard activity in DC! The real problem here is the number of ECV HMMWVs being sold out of Barstow right now. If you've bought one you'd better have your paperwork in order!

Mine clunked like an SOB with only that one U-joint bad! I discovered it by accident on a monthly inspection when I grabbed the drive shaft to scoot around on my creeper. I guess I'd never done that before or it was always in the right spot when I grabbed it. All the others seemed to be solid...

I'd be willing to bet that you have a u-joint failing and that's something that needs to be repaired before something catastrophic happens. The u-joints are often overlooked during PMs because they're a PITA to lube. To properly lube them you need to rotate the drive shafts to open up the...

I have an old Sears 1.5 ton floor jack that works fine. Remember you aren't lifting the entire weight of the truck.

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See if you can find an inexpensive CX-4723 cable and it'll have 2 of the male connectors that will mate with the female connector you bought. Otherwise my offer still stands for the male connector. The wires themselves just solder onto the studs in the back of the connectors.

JCKnife, I think the modules you've linked to are strictly audio amplifiers and are meant to output bluetooth audio only. Even though one of them states there's a transceiver module on it its a generic module and I don't think it's set for bi-directlional comms. As for your connector if you want...

Even though you have power to the cold advance solenoid it may be sticking and not opening on a cold start. They're not that expensive. Try replacing it. Your comment on stepping on the pedal reminded me of when mine was doing the same thing and that was what solved my issue.

This is why the knowledgable HMMWV owners install BalanceMasters or Centramatics on their trucks!

The primary thing you need to consider when changing to a slant back is the windshield needs to be changed too because it has mounting brackets welded to it that secure the front of the slant back tops. Everything else is fairly straightforward. I sure hope to see some of these trucks at...

Sounds more like the transfer case grenaded. That would explain the lock up and then free up. My advice would be to not try to drive it and be very careful towing it around in case there's a brokem tooth floating around inside.

With the very limited clearance along the right side of the engine and the wierd angle the hex bit needs to be at this is one miserable job and you can see why no one tries to do this with the engine in the truck!

Most of us don't even have those heat shields fitted because they don't do much other than get in the way.

Pins V and W on the STE/ICE connector are connections directly to the battery + and - so you can connect your meter there and read the battery voltage as you try to start the truck. Even though you've jusy replaced the glow plugs go back in and read their resistance to see if they're still...