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i think i remember the allisons with od are 6 speeds. also electronic, so ecu and shifter must be programed. you would not have to use the 6th speed as it may be too high, but length as i recall will be a big problem. no manual trans i know of (that will fit) has enough od so the only option is...
all 3053 trans have the same ratio, a and b are the same, there is only one od ratio .78 . the entire mainshaft will come out in the truck, but the counter shaft will not come out in the truck. . drive johns truck then call me!
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tom
i have always found it to be pretty easy. just be sure to clean ALL the grease, oil and stuff off first. really clean and dry makes it really easy.
tom
the short answer is that what you propose doing will not work. you just need a larger converter. there will be situations where the current draw on the 10 amp converter will be exceeded and the battery will never be really fully charged.
tom
the stock rod has thru bolts already and it is rarely the bolt that breaks, usually the threads pull off with the nut and then the other side breakes. just replacing the stock bolts with new stock bolts may be a wise choice, but then you still have the issues above.
tom
first, $25 per bolt is beyond ridiculous. now i don't remember if the bolts just slide in or are press, but second and much more important, if the rod bolt is a press fit in the rod AT ALL, you cannot just replace the bolts. the big end WILL change shape with the changing of the bolts. so now...
all tubing is measured by od. it is all 1/4, 3/8, and a little 1/2. use truck air brake line and it will last forever. reuse all the original fittings and nuts with sleeves inside the line for support with nylon ferrules and do not overtighten.
tom
currently there are 13 sets out there. interestingly, 5 sets went to m37 projects but only 2 are installed. 1 set went to a m715 project, not installed yet. 6 went to m35, but only 4 are installed, 1 uninstalled set is destined for a bobbed m35 in texas, the only one so far. i drive mine often...
g. yes the input does not look that bad in picture, but i would like to see it in person to see how parallel the sides are and the condition of the roller race. i discussed that with joe as he is near me, maybe 20 miles?, and i have the bearings etc and can also examine all the other parts so...
what you are calling 4th is really 5th. they seem to be very cheap compared to the rest of the gears. the last new one i got was $56 i may still have some new ones if you want call me.
tom
i have some good used hubs, but mainshafts are pretty cheap, you might just as well get a new one. all the shafts i have are for the overdrive upgrade so will not fit your trans. the shifter moving in 5th is normal. there is a feature on the mainshaft that keeps it from comming out of gear in...
the position of internal parts is set by the outer ring on the bearings. not by the front or rear housing. there is no preload on anything as in some other transmissions. however if you do not use a gasket and overtighten the bolts, you may break the housing since the flange may not be suported.
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