Search results

The RV ISL engine came equipped with an exhaust brake (butterfly valve on turbo outlet). I also just won an eBay auction for a Jake brake (compression brake, Cummins "C" brake) setup for this engine. Can't use both at the same time, but could select between one or another. The Jake is two...

Nice price and strength. Does it hit either axle in full suspension travel when hoist is collapsed?

I called him today around noon, but no answer, texted him also. Possibly does not answer unknown numbers, I don't. Since he does this for $, he may not share info? I'm doing this for myself in this case, as would most anybody else on this board I would think. Matt, if you are there, can...

OK, these are supposedly the stock size front and rear crank seals. Had to grab a knarly hat while there. Yes, $86 for a rear main. WTF. Oh well, that is the one you definently don't want leaking, so I went original equipment. Will jamb these in, swap the oil pan, then stick the trans on...

Or an 8 ball. Or 9 ball.

You can have it for free bud. Will send it to you once I have the new engine in and everything working correctly. Reminder, it is 12v, but I can include a 12/24 relay, or just send 12v to it. Either way easy to do. They will love it at the oyster bar.

Well, I won't be the first, but I will have more gears and almost twice the engine power into it. And a shorter lever!

Front and rear crank seals are too big. Came with spedi-sleeves to install on crank, so seals are oversized. Ugh! Just needs stock size seals to renew. PITA.

Amazing how much silly stuff can slow a project down. Could not find a Timken pilot bearing with Viton seals. Bearing ID 306 or 6306. 306VV is the Viton sealed bearing I am after. Timken offers it with rubber or steel seals. The rubber is low temp, the steel is not waterproof. Lot's of...

Stock a2 fan clutch test fit checked out OK. Thanks smittyjr355 for the borrow of one, I did not want to remove mine just for test fit, but will once I pull engine to transplant it and keep it in use on the truck. I prefer this over the electric fan clutch that came with the engine on the RV...

Too many amps.

We need a "Thread from the dead" emoji, maybe a tombstone that says "Thread" on it. In this case, this one makes sense though. If you run a 180 stat, and 185 fan switch, isn't your fan going to be on nearly all the time? That is not enough hysteresis.

It is not as high as it looks. This is its position in the MRAP this engine is also used in. If we make the valve cover taller, it does not look so high. I can drop it back low too by simply flipping the exhaust manifold over and re-indexing the turbo again. This is just where I think it...

For the A/C compressor, the spacing of the bolts don't match the mount. But mount has additional material to accomodate, so just need to drill and tap for 2 holes after confirming belt alignment, but looks OK by eyeball. Alternator is a riot, figures I'd be cursed. Mount holes aligned, but...

Starting to look like an engine. Alternator and A/C compressor don't fit right, fabulous.

Reassembled the turbo and did some test fits last night. Was able to clock this VGT to the orientation I wanted, to put it similar to how my 8.3 exhaust position is. This turbo seems higher, but the ISL has a much shorter valve cover.

Did some test fits last night. Finally have right bolt lengths for clutch pressure plate and clutch housing. I wanted a lot of thread engagement for both. All bolts are hardened. Did the recommended 2 pressure plate install dowels also. These go top 2 holes, then slide plate on.

The one for a Road Ranger is about the same. I'm going to add it, just to be safe given aluminum fly housing and SAE 2.

How can he mount the hoist "upside down" like that? It will work the same, but there is no room for the bed to fully lower without hitting it? Unless that is why he is building a frame, and his own box with a relief around the hoist area when collapsed.